X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from fmailhost05.isp.att.net ([204.127.217.105] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2.16) with ESMTP id 3827791 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Fri, 28 Aug 2009 14:21:28 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=204.127.217.105; envelope-from=keltro@att.net DKIM-Signature: v=1; q=dns/txt; d=att.net; s=dkim01; i=keltro@att.net; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; t=1251483689; h=Content-Type: MIME-Version:Message-Id:Date:Subject:To:From; bh=Rko3ClyjDypKdmdPZW QKhwPzCUq4fNPS09BR6JBazoA=; b=YR4Jc29i/UXr7xoSsLc9/dUSpT978p9HDYAFb mYRo9l6VPZlHpyDUKAUevIDvKR2wnZzMiUlR/dKVmir4qL/Pg== Received: from fwebmail18.isp.att.net ([204.127.221.118]) by isp.att.net (frfwmhc05) with SMTP id <20090828182053H05003ebhge>; Fri, 28 Aug 2009 18:20:53 +0000 X-Originating-IP: [204.127.221.118] Received: from [208.114.35.206] by fwebmail18.isp.att.net; Fri, 28 Aug 2009 18:20:52 +0000 From: "Kelly Troyer" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Subject: Alternator Pic & Modifications Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 18:20:52 +0000 Message-Id: <082820091820.23509.4A9820040001396000005BD522230703629B0A02D29B9B0EBF019D9B040A05@att.net> X-Mailer: AT&T Message Center Version 1 (Mar 2 2009) X-Authenticated-Sender: a2VsdHJvQGF0dC5uZXQ= MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_23509_1251483652_0" --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_23509_1251483652_0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Group, Below is an exchange I had with Tim Holt a member of our group currentl= y building a RV10 with a 20B Rotary concerning the modification of his Mazda alternato= r for an external regulator as described in the link below...........I have modif= ied several of the Mazda alternators and have described the process on this forum before a= nd at the Rotary Roundup a few years ago...........I did not invent this modification= and do not make any claim that I did.........There are different opinions among our gr= oup as to the=20 necessity of this modification and I will let others voice their opinion on= this............... I personnaly believe that if there is even a remote possibility of a sho= rt in the internal regulator causing run away voltage and there being no way to shut the alter= nator down by removing the field voltage (the field voltage is supplied by the interna= l regulator) that is reason enough to use an external regulator that you can cut the field vo= ltage and shut the alternator down................I have several photos that Tim sent me o= f his modified regulator/brush housing that are too large to send with this post..........= .E mail me direct at keltro@att.net and I will forward them to anyone interested...........B= elow is the link to the original modification information.............Please note that I adv= ocate the complete removal of the internal regulator circuitry to prevent any chance of a shor= t in any device preventing removal of the field voltage..............Also I use solid coppe= r wire jumpers instead of the copper "desolder braid" as described in the link below......= ..... PS- Read posts from the bottom up for chronological order !! http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/alternator.htm Best Regards, Kelly Troyer=20 "Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine=20 "RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2=20 "Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold=20=20 =20=20=20 From: Kelly Troyer keltro@att.net=20=20=20=20=20=20=20=20=20=20=20 To: "Holt, Timothy LT" Subject: Modify Alternator for External Regulator Date: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 10:25:07 AM [View Source] Tim, Here is link for modifying the stock Mazda alternator for an external re= gulator..... ........I have personally used one modified as described in my Chevrolet 4.= 3L V6=20 powered 1988 RX7 for over 60,000 miles...............I personally believe y= ou should completely remove the internal regulator and not just bypass it with the sh= orting straps as described in the link (to eliminate any chance of an internal short in t= he regulator causing a problem)............This is accomplished by removing the heatsink= top and all potting compound and regulator internal circuitry...........Al= l my Mazda alternators have basically the same internals (including the 90 amp that came with my 13B Co= smo that is the same that comes stock on the 20B Cosmo engine).........Your regulato= r/brush holder should have essentially the same number of solder blobs as described= in the=20 modification link..........Some alternators do not have but one bridge to c= ut (cut it rather than desolder as it takes a lot of heat and you are close to the dio= de bridge and do not want to damage them)........... Use a multimeter to make sure that your shorting jumper connects the pr= oper=20 brush to the "L" terminal of the external connector and that the other jump= er connects the other brush to ground (the alternator housing) when the bru= sh holder is installed as stated in the modification link............ This is not necessary but I do my shorting jumpers a little different..= .......I use a short piece of 14 gauge house wiring (insulation removed) formed into a s= mall "U" shape inserted from the now empty internal regulator cavity side and th= rough the solder blob holes(solder removed)then resolder in place and snip off al= l excess wire.........Then I re-pot (fill) the regulator cavity with silicone(your c= hoice of color) Your brush holder/regulator should be essentially the same as described= and have the same number of solder blobs...........If not sent me a close up ph= oto and we will figure out what to do with it.............This is really a very eas= y modification once you have done it.............=20=20=20 http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/alternator.htm Best of Luck with the Project !! Kelly Troyer=20 "Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine=20 "RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2=20 "Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold=20 -------------- Forwarded Message: --------------=20 From: Timothy Holt =20 To: Kelly Troyer =20 Subject: Re: Alternator Pic & Modifications=20 Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 00:15:20 +0000=20 Kelly, Here is some pics of the completed regulator. The only recommendation if= I had to do it over again is I would desolder the wires on the solder pad.= The regulator circuit board is connected to the heat sink and it would ha= ve made it easier to remove the heatsink. I was able to get enough room be= tween the heatsink and regulator that I was able to get a pair of small wir= e snips and get it apart. Thank you for all the help. From: Kelly Troyer To: Timothy Holt Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 1:03:52 AM Subject: Re: Alternator Pic & Modifications Tim, These brush/regulator housings vary slightly from model to model.........= Go ahead and leave the jumper on the lower brush as it will not hurt to have both "L" an= d "R" terminals wired together..........That way you will not have to remember wh= ich one needs to be wired for the connector to the field (either one or both will do)....= ...... Your last message stated the Top terminal (did you mean 'Top Brush")has n= o continuity with either of the terminals............It should not have......= ......The Top brush should have continuity with the metal "Washer" in the screw hole on the oth= er side of the brush housing when the jumper is in place on that side...........Put= the jumper in place and check for continuity from the top brush to this metal washer..= .......When the brush holder is fastened into the alternator this metal washer makes co= ntact with the metal alternator housing and provides the path to the ground side of th= e circuit... I am presuming you have completely removed the internal regulator circui= try......... Let me know if this does the job.............=20 -- Kelly Troyer=20 "Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine=20 "RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2=20 "Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold=20 -------------- Original message from Timothy Holt = : --------------=20 I just removed the jumper on the lower brush now i only have continuity on = just one terminal. Do I need the jumper? From: Kelly Troyer To: Timothy Holt Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2009 1:28:51 PM Subject: Re: Alternator Pic & Modifications OK Tim, First you need to carefully remove the metal heat-sink from the top of t= he regulator (I used a small thin blade knife to pop it loose from the potting material underneath).........Try not to break any of the brush/regulator ho= using as it is somewhat brittle...........Then remove the potting and regulator i= nternal circuitry (it is somewhat rubbery).........I used a small narrow blade scre= wdriver and it takes a little work (again try not to crack or break the housing)...= ...... You will be left with 4 small wires that are soldered to the "Blobs" on the opposite side of the housing.........Heat these "Blobs" and remove the = wires and clean the solder from the holes.........There is a small metal solder p= ad at each hole..........You do not have to use a 14 gauge wire as jumpers as= =20 it is slightly larger than the holes so I very carefully enlarged the holes= with=20 a small drill bit (the 14 gause just happened to be handy) but I would use a solid wire rather than a stranded wire............... Using your #1 photo for reference use your meter to check for continuity= =20 from the top brush to a solder hole (it looks like the top brush goes to th= e=20 right side of the housing)............If it does go to the right side check= the other hole on that side to see if it is connected to one of the terminals........= ..If it does then your first jumper will be inserted from the regulator side throug= h both of these holes and carefully soldered (no cold solder joints please).......= ....If the other hole on the right side does not go to one of the terminals then i= t will be the "Ground" brush and still will be jumper-ed as I described......= .... Now go to the left side of the housing and use your meter to check for continuity from the other brush to one of the solder holes on that side the= n check the other hole on that side to determine if it goes to either a termi= nal or ground (depends on where the other brush went)...........Once you have= =20 made sure where the other solder hole goes jumper these 2 holes as the other side and again carefully solder (snip off any extra wire above solder= ) Check both brushes with your meter to make sure one has continuity to one of the "External Terminals" (does not matter which one just remember=20 as it will connect to the "Field" terminal of your external regulator) and = the other brush will be connected to "Ground" (the alternator housing) through= =20 one of the screws that fastens the brush assembly to the alternator.......A= lso make sure there is "NO" continuity (Short) between the 2 brushes......... Now to make things neat and tidy I would "Repot" the regulator side=20 of the brush housing with some silicone (your choice of color) to protect the jumper wires from moisture and accidental shorting.............. Hope my long winded directions are clear as I do not know your comfort level when dealing with electrical stuff and I have made several assumption= s as to your familarity with a volt/ohm meter to check continuity............= Let me know how you do with this and send me a photo when finished.......... One other thing.........You may completely clip off the rest of the tab close to the brush housing that you unsoldered?clipped from from the "Diode= " array as described in the modification link I sent to you initially........= .........=20 All the Best=20=20=20 -- Kelly Troyer=20 "Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine=20 "RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2=20 "Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold=20 -------------- Original message from Timothy Holt = : --------------=20 Kelly, Here is some pictures of my regulator. From: "Kelly Troyer" =20 .=20=20=20=20=20=20=20=20=20=20=20 To: "Holt, Timothy LT" Subject: Modify Alternator for External Regulator Date: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 10:25:07 AM [View Source] Tim, Here is link for modifying the stock Mazda alternator for an external re= gulator..... ........I have personally used one modified as described in my Chevrolet 4.= 3L V6=20 powered 1988 RX7 for over 60,000 miles...............I personally believe y= ou should completely remove the internal regulator and not just bypass it with the sh= orting straps as described in the link (to eliminate any chance of an internal short in t= he regulator causing a problem)............This is accomplished by removing the heatsink= top and all potting compound and regulator internal circuitry...........Al= l my Mazda alternators have basically the same internals (including the 90 amp that came with my 13B Co= smo that is the same that comes stock on the 20B Cosmo engine).........Your regulato= r/brush holder should have essentially the same number of solder blobs as described= in the=20 modification link..........Some alternators do not have but one bridge to c= ut (cut it rather than desolder as it takes a lot of heat and you are close to the dio= de bridge and do not want to damage them)........... Use a multimeter to make sure that your shorting jumper connects the pr= oper=20 brush to the "L" terminal of the external connector and that the other jump= er connects the other brush to ground (the alternator housing) when the bru= sh holder is installed as stated in the modification link............ This is not necessary but I do my shorting jumpers a little different..= .......I use a short piece of 14 gauge house wiring (insulation removed) formed into a s= mall "U" shape inserted from the now empty internal regulator cavity side and th= rough the solder blob holes(solder removed)then resolder in place and snip off al= l excess wire.........Then I re-pot (fill) the regulator cavity with silicone(your c= hoice of color) Your brush holder/regulator should be essentially the same as described= and have the same number of solder blobs...........If not sent me a close up ph= oto and we will figure out what to do with it.............This is really a very eas= y modification once you have done it.............=20=20=20 http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/alternator.htm Best of Luck with the Project !! Kelly Troyer=20 "Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine=20 "RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2=20 "Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold=20 --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_23509_1251483652_0 Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_23509_1251483652_1" --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_23509_1251483652_1 Content-Type: text/html; charset="utf-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Group,
    Below is an exchange I had with Tim Holt a member o= f our group currently building
a RV10 with a 20B Rotary concerning the modification of his Mazda alte= rnator for
an external regulator as described in the link below...........I have = modified several of
the Mazda alternators and have described the process on this forum bef= ore and at the
Rotary Roundup a few years ago...........I did not invent this modific= ation and do not
make any claim that I did.........There are different opinions among o= ur group as to the
necessity of this modification and I will let others voice their opini= on on this...............
 
   I personnaly believe that if there is even a remote possi= bility of a short in the internal
regulator causing run away voltage and there being no way to shut the = alternator down
by removing the field voltage (the field voltage is supplied by the in= ternal regulator) that
is reason enough to use an external regulator that you can cut the fie= ld voltage and shut
the alternator down................I have several photos that Tim sent= me of his modified
regulator/brush housing that are too large to send with this post.....= ......E mail me direct
at keltro@att.net  and I wi= ll forward them to anyone interested...........Below is the link
to the original modification information.............Please note that = I advocate the complete
removal of the internal regulator circuitry to prevent any chance of a= short in any device
preventing removal of the field voltage..............Also I use solid = copper wire jumpers
instead of the copper "desolder braid" as described in the link below.= ..........
 
PS- Read posts from the bottom up for chronological order !!
 
 
    Best Regards,
 
  Kelly Troyer
"Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/= EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold =20
&n= bsp; 
3D"" 3D"" 3D""

 

 

 From:  Kelly Troyer keltro@att.net  
           
To:    "Holt, Timothy LT" <Timothy.C.Holt@uscg.mil>
Subject:    Modify Alternator for External Regulator
Date:    Tuesday, August 25, 2009 10:25:= 07 AM   [View Source]

3D""
 
   Tim,
   Here is link for modifying the stock Ma= zda alternator for an external regulator.....
........I have personally used one modified as descr= ibed in my Chevrolet 4.3L V6
powered 1988 RX7 for over 60,000 miles..............= .I personally believe you should
completely remove the internal regulator and not jus= t bypass it with the shorting straps
as described in the link (to eliminate any chance of= an internal short in the regulator
causing a problem)............This is accomplished b= y removing the heatsink top and all potting compound and regulator internal= circuitry...........All my Mazda alternators have
basically the same internals (including the 90 amp t= hat came with my 13B Cosmo that
is the same that comes stock on the 20B Cosmo engine= ).........Your regulator/brush
holder should have essentially the same number of so= lder blobs as described in the
modification link..........Some alternators do not h= ave but one bridge to cut (cut it
rather than desolder as it takes a lot of heat and y= ou are close to the diode bridge
and do not want to damage them)...........
 
    Use a multimeter to make sure tha= t your shorting jumper connects the proper
brush to the "L" terminal of the external connector = and that the other jumper connects the other brush to ground (the alternato= r housing) when the brush holder is installed
as stated in the modification link............<= /DIV>
 
    This is not necessary but I = do my shorting jumpers a little different.........I use
a short piece of 14 gauge house wiring (insulation r= emoved) formed into a small
"U" shape inserted from the now empty internal regul= ator cavity side and through
the solder blob holes(solder removed)then resolder i= n place and snip off all excess
wire.........Then I re-pot (fill) the regulator cavi= ty with silicone(your choice of color)
 
    Your brush holder/regulator shoul= d be essentially the same as described and
have the same number of solder blobs...........If no= t sent me a close up photo and
we will figure out what to do with it.............Th= is is really a very easy modification
once you have done it.............   =
 
         = http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/alternator.htm
 
Best of Luck with the Project !!

Kelly Troyer
"Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine =
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold

-------------- Forwarded Message: --------------
From: T= imothy Holt <tntholt23@bellsouth.net>
To: Kelly Troyer <keltro= @att.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator Pic & Modifications
Date: = Fri, 28 Aug 2009 00:15:20 +0000

Kelly,
  Here is some pics of the completed regulator.  T= he only recommendation if I had to do it over again is I would desolde= r the wires on the solder pad.  The regulator circuit board is connect= ed to the heat sink and it would have made it easier to remove the heatsink= .  I was able to get enough room between the heatsink and regulator th= at I was able to get a pair of small wire snips and get it apart. = ; Thank you for all the help.

From: Kelly Troyer <kelt= ro@att.net>
To: Timot= hy Holt <tntholt23@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 1:03:52 AM
Subject: Re: Alternator Pic & Modifi= cations

Tim,
  These brush/regulator housings vary slightly from model to mode= l.........Go ahead and
leave the jumper on the lower brush as it will not hurt to have both "= L" and "R"
terminals wired together..........That way you will not have to rememb= er which one needs
to be wired for the connector to the field (either one or both wi= ll do)..........
 
  Your last message stated the Top terminal (did you mean 'T= op Brush")has no
continuity with either of the terminals............It should not have.= ...........The Top brush
should have continuity with the metal "Washer" in the screw hole on th= e other side
of the brush housing when the jumper is in place on that side.........= ..Put the jumper
in place and check for continuity from the top brush to this meta= l washer.........When
the brush holder is fastened into the alternator this metal washer mak= es contact with
the metal alternator housing and provides the path to the ground side = of the circuit...
 
   I am presuming you have completely removed the internal r= egulator circuitry.........
  Let me know if this does the job............. 
--
Kelly Troyer
"Dyke Delta"_1= 3B ROTARY Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifol= d
-------------- Original message from Timothy Holt <= ;tntholt23@bellsouth.net>: --------------

I just removed the jumper on the lower brush now i only have continuit= y on just one terminal. Do I need the jumper?

From: Kelly Troyer <kelt= ro@att.net>
To: Timot= hy Holt <tntholt23@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2009 1:28:51 PM
Subject: Re: Alternator Pic & Modif= ications

OK Tim,
   First you need to carefully remove the metal heat-sink fr= om the top of the
regulator (I used a small thin blade knife to pop it loose from the po= tting
material underneath).........Try not to break any of the brush/regulat= or housing
as it is somewhat brittle...........Then remove the potting and regula= tor internal
circuitry (it is somewhat rubbery).........I used a small narrow blade= screwdriver
and it takes a little work (again try not to crack or break the housin= g).........
 
   You will be left with 4 small wires that are soldered to = the "Blobs" on
the opposite side of the housing.........Heat these "Blobs" and remove= the wires
and clean the solder from the holes.........There is a small metal sol= der pad
at each hole..........You do not have to use a 14 gauge wire as jumper= s as
it is slightly larger than the holes so I very carefully enlarged the = holes with
a small drill bit (the 14 gause just happened to be handy) but I would= use
a solid wire rather than a stranded wire...............
 
   Using your #1 photo for reference use your meter to check= for continuity
from the top brush to a solder hole (it looks like the top brush goes = to the
right side of the housing)............If it does go to the right side = check the other
hole on that side to see if it is connected to one of the terminals...= .......If it
does then your first jumper will be inserted from the regulator side t= hrough both
of these holes and carefully soldered (no cold solder joints please)..= .........If
the other hole on the right side does not go to one of the termin= als then it
will be the "Ground" brush and still will be jumper-ed as I described.= .........
 
   Now go to the left side of the housing and use your meter= to check for
continuity from the other brush to one of the solder holes on tha= t side then
check the other hole on that side to determine if it goes to eith= er a terminal
or ground (depends on where the other brush went)...........Once you h= ave
made sure where the other solder hole goes jumper these 2 holes&n= bsp;as the
other side and again carefully solder (snip off any extra wire above s= older)
 
   Check both brushes with your meter to make sure one = has continuity to
one of the "External Terminals" (does not matter which one just rememb= er
as it will connect to the "Field" terminal of your external regul= ator) and the
other brush will be connected to "Ground" (the alternator housing)&nbs= p;through
one of the screws that fastens the brush assembly to the alternator...= ....Also
make sure there is "NO" continuity (Short) between the 2 brushes......= ...
 
   Now to make things neat and tidy I would "Repot" the regu= lator side
of the brush housing with some silicone (your choice of color) to prot= ect
the jumper wires from moisture and accidental shorting..............
 
   Hope my long winded directions are clear as I do not know= your comfort
level when dealing with electrical stuff and I have made several assum= ptions
as to your familarity with a volt/ohm meter to check continuity.......= .....Let
me know how you do with this and send me a photo when finished...= .......
 
   One other thing.........You may completely clip off the r= est of the tab
close to the brush housing that you unsoldered?clipped from from the "= Diode"
array as described in the modification link I sent to you initial= ly................. 
 
All the Best   
--
Kelly Troyer
"Dyke Delta"_1= 3B ROTARY Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifol= d
-------------- Original message from Timothy Holt <= ;tntholt23@bellsouth.net>: --------------

Kelly,
  Here is some pictures of my regulator.
 
3D"" 3D"" 3D""
From:   
"Kelly Troyer" <keltro@att.net>=20
. 
           
To:    "Holt, Timothy LT" <Timothy.C.Holt@uscg.mil>
Subject:    Modify Alternator for External Regulator
Date:    Tuesday, August 25, 2009 10:25:= 07 AM   [View Source]

3D""
 
   Tim,
   Here is link for modifying the stock Ma= zda alternator for an external regulator.....
........I have personally used one modified as descr= ibed in my Chevrolet 4.3L V6
powered 1988 RX7 for over 60,000 miles..............= .I personally believe you should
completely remove the internal regulator and not jus= t bypass it with the shorting straps
as described in the link (to eliminate any chance of= an internal short in the regulator
causing a problem)............This is accomplished b= y removing the heatsink top and all potting compound and regulator internal= circuitry...........All my Mazda alternators have
basically the same internals (including the 90 amp t= hat came with my 13B Cosmo that
is the same that comes stock on the 20B Cosmo engine= ).........Your regulator/brush
holder should have essentially the same number of so= lder blobs as described in the
modification link..........Some alternators do not h= ave but one bridge to cut (cut it
rather than desolder as it takes a lot of heat and y= ou are close to the diode bridge
and do not want to damage them)...........
 
    Use a multimeter to make sure tha= t your shorting jumper connects the proper
brush to the "L" terminal of the external connector = and that the other jumper connects the other brush to ground (the alternato= r housing) when the brush holder is installed
as stated in the modification link............<= /DIV>
 
    This is not necessary but I = do my shorting jumpers a little different.........I use
a short piece of 14 gauge house wiring (insulation r= emoved) formed into a small
"U" shape inserted from the now empty internal regul= ator cavity side and through
the solder blob holes(solder removed)then resolder i= n place and snip off all excess
wire.........Then I re-pot (fill) the regulator cavi= ty with silicone(your choice of color)
 
    Your brush holder/regulator shoul= d be essentially the same as described and
have the same number of solder blobs...........If no= t sent me a close up photo and
we will figure out what to do with it.............Th= is is really a very easy modification
once you have done it.............   =
 
         = http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/alternator.htm
 
Best of Luck with the Project !!

Kelly Troyer
"Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine =
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold
--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_23509_1251483652_1-- --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_23509_1251483652_0--