No luck today.
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> I filled the line out of the engine just after the pump, then
> cranked it over with the starter. I did get a little flow, but not
> very much. I reconnected the hose, and added components as I went,
> checking that I had oil flow after each. Still had flow after the
> cooler and just barely a trickle after the filter, where the oil
> should go back into the engine. From this I am thinking either I
> am not picking up enough oil, or the pump isn’t pumping enough oil.
There should be some large amount of time between filling the hose and trying to crank the engine. The object is that the oil in the hose will flow backwards (very slowly) through the pump and back into the sump. Keep adding oil to the hose to keep it full (highest head pressure), or if you can rig up a way to add shop air pressure to that hose full of oil it could shorten the process to a few seconds from an hour or so.
I would not use shop air to pressurize the block, as you might turn a seal inside out.
You could stick the end of the hose in a glass jug or similar. Place the end of a shop vac hose over the neck and pack a rag around the junction. Turn on the shop vac until oil ( a lot of oil runs out of the hose).
Flow rate will not be great, but it will wet the pump.
You could fill the sump with oil to a level higher than the pump. Then it would be charged just sitting still.
I never used a gasket on the end of the pickup. I just lap the flange dead flat and bolted it on. Then safety wire the bolts. No bug screen and a nice bell shape on the end of the pipe.
If the pump has a prime it will put out a 2" high vertical column of oil past the hose end at cranking speed.
Several things come to mind with the OMP removed. Is there a hole that needs to be plugged with the OPM gone? I block off the oil supply to the OMP at the gasket face with a bearing ball pressed into the oil gallery.
And, now the ever popular "O" ring between the front iron and the front cover. It is prone to failure on cold start ups. If it would just blow out, there would just be a reduction in oil pressure. It does not just blow out. The "O" ring extrudes out of one side of the junction to release the pressure, and remains clamped in that position, providing a big oil leak, that can only be repaired by removing the front cover, and installing a new ring. I recommend a solid aluminum or copper ring that will not fail. The front cover is quite flexible, and high oil pressure on startup can push the cover off of the junction and allow the "O" ring to escape.
The avarage 5th grade girl would not have engineered anything this stupid, but you cannot tell the Japs anything. Later they place a Nylon reinforced washer around the is junction, and used a fatter "O" ring. The washer takes up space and improves clamping force around the land area. Later still a stainless gasket fits around the junction.
If either the cover or the iron had this land area left proud of the gasket surface even .010" or .015" this "O" ring would probably never fail. The front cover gasket leaves this junction standing open a bit. The hot street deal is to leave out the gasket to get the gap to close up.
I blocked that junction with a thick aluminum disc, and took the oil out the end of the gallery with a dash 10 tube to boss fitting. Do not use a pipe thread in that gallery, it will crack open and ruin the iron.
Note the core support plug missing in this iron.
Lynn E. Hanover
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