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Tracy,
With the Advanced EFIS / engine monitor all of the
instruments are factory calibrated and so far have been correct. Oil
pressure is being read directly out of the engine before the oil filter and oil
/ water exchanger. I made a quick run to the airport this afternoon and made
another 15 minute ground with the inlet ducts blocked. I was able to get the
water up to 200F and climbing and oil to 165F. OAT was 75F Oil pressure varied
from 65 at idle to 105 psi at 6000 rpm. On earlier ground runs to 7500 rpm I was
only able to get the oil to 144F and water to 177F. OAT was 65F or less. and oil
pressure in the 110-120 range. Warming the oil up did seem to make a
difference.
Ed,
"Bobby, depending of where your oil pressure sensor is
located (before or after the oil cooler – assuming a stock Rx-7 oil cooler with
internal thermostat). IF you have removed the thermostat in the oil
cooler and have not blocked that thermostat opening, then a lot of the oil will
not flow through the several passages through the cooler core. This could
mean you are not getting the normal pressure drop across the oil cooler which if
your sensor is down stream would mean higher pressure at the sensor – but
probably not more than 5 – 10 psi."
No
thermostat in the oil or water circuits. If the sensor placement is making a 10
psi difference then the problem may not exist. My remote oil filter adapter has
two inlets and two outlets. I am using the second inlet for oil pressure and the
second outlet will be used to monitor the before oil cooler temp with the EM3.
No room at the engine oil pad adapter block for the pressure sender so this
location was easy. It's visible in one of the photos.
Bobby
Odd problems. Peak Oil pressure should not be significantly
affected by temperature or oil weight. What is it? Lower
viscosity oil is not a solution. Are you sure the instruments are right /
calibrated?
Tracy
On Wed, Dec 3, 2008 at 11:04 AM, Bobby J. Hughes <bhughes@qnsi.net>
wrote:
I am
having a problem getting my oil temps up and oil pressure down without an oil
thermostat. Will try blocking some of the air flow this
weekend. Is 10W-40 or 10W-30 to light for the gearbox during the
winter months? I plan to run the engine for at least 20 hours on the
ground and switch back to Mobil 1 for first flight.
Bobby
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Tracy
Crook
Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2008 9:12 AM
To:
Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: New Engine Break
In with Gearbox -- for Tracy
Next best in mineral oil is Shell Rotella. 15W - 50 or
similar. Tracy
On Wed, Dec 3, 2008 at 9:18 AM, Bobby J. Hughes <bhughes@qnsi.net> wrote:
Tracy,
What oil do you recommend for breaking in
a new engine that is also acceptable for the gearbox? Bruce T
said to replace the Mobile 1 for 10-15 hours so the apex seals will seat.
Thanks,
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