Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: flyrotary Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 23:13:42 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from imo-r08.mx.aol.com ([152.163.225.104] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.0) with ESMTP id 1844494 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Thu, 24 Oct 2002 22:02:31 -0400 Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-r08.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v34.13.) id q.142.1316235 (25711) for ; Thu, 24 Oct 2002 22:02:24 -0400 (EDT) From: Lehanover@aol.com X-Original-Message-ID: <142.1316235.2aea0030@aol.com> X-Original-Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 22:02:24 EDT Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Rotor Coatings vs Oil Temp X-Original-To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 138 In a message dated 10/24/2002 9:06:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time, marv@lancaironline.net writes: > Lynn, > With your experience with oil temps and its effect on rotor brgs as > a > guide > what do you about the usefulness of HI temp coatings (rotor faces) as > advocated > in recent posts to reduce rotor bearing temps? I fully understand this is not > a > real > problem at the power and RPM levels we normally use in our aircraft. > > Kelly Troyer > That area has been getting much better in the last few years. The NASCAR people picked up on that way back. Ceramic coated piston tops and Teflon coating on the sides. They could run very close piston to wall clearance to hold the ring package dead square and not worry about the piston getting too hot and getting too big for the hole. Any energy (heat) that escapes into the oil or water is energy wasted. The perfect engine would have an EGT the same as the intake air. Smokey Yanuk (I hope that's right) insulated the inside of aluminum heads so they couldn't transfer as much combustion heat into the coolant. Same idea. Later they ceramic coated the combustion chambers. Still less heat lost to the coolant. If the people doing it have experience doing Rotors, so that they mask all the grooves off properly, it sounds like a good idea. If that ceramic gets into anything important, the rotor is scrap. Less oil, smaller oil radiator, lower fuel consumption and less weight. Sounds pretty good so far. But, the coating just insulates the combustion side of each rotor face so that it cannot absorb as much of the heat. So lower oil temps. Lower temps overall reduces probability that an overheated bearing can occur. However, much higher localized temps occur in the oil wedge between the bearing surface and the crank. Just a small amount of the oil between the bearing and the crank is superheated to some ridiculous temperatures. This is where and why the bearings get overheated. The spent oil is forced out by fresh oil under pressure and it mixes with oil that was not in the wedge area. So you look at the gage and say to yourself, look, the oil is only 220 degrees on climbout. No problem. Keep the hammer down. But what is the highest oil temp in the bearing interface? 275? 300? More? I don't know, but it sure isn't 220 is it? The 220 is sort of a poorly done average of all of the oil spilled from the bearing, plus all of the rotor cooling oil from the spray holes in the crank and the oil falling back out of the rotor after cooling it. While the rotor bearings will survive at 220 degrees (indicated) for a while, how long would you want to run them that hot? The strength of the soft bearing material is going away fast above 220. I think I would spend the money on a bigger cooler. Better to make 180 the maximum and keep shooting for 160 on climb out. There is more power to be had at 160 anyway. Lynn E. Hanover