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Those pics worth a lot. One perspective I
focus on is "large bubbles of air flowing thru the block are 10 times more
significant than anything else." I think everyone agrees on that point.
Very likely you have air trapped in that upper
radiator hose. That's one of two local high spots. It's in high flow area,
so in theory it's very significant and going to affect cooling at high power
settings. I like the suggestion to fire up engine and feel hose in that area. It
will be cooler due to air.
Remember I suggested operating with 2 cups of air
under cap? Definitely NOT a good idea with design that has rad cap part of
radiator. That would be a disaster.
I also suggested having dynamic air bleed. It
automatically removes air from main flow and allows it to rise out of flow. You
can't. You don't have any higher components that are out of flow.
I delayed responding because I don't know what I'd
do in your situation. You could cut top rad hose in half, install an aluminum
tube at that high point. Then install shrader valve at top of aluminum tube.
That would be one of the few ways to get that air out. But I don't think you
have cowl clearance for that.
Aha! I'd cut off beaded upper hose tube from rad.
Lower it, weld new tube at 45 degree angle so you are not trapping air. This
would make your rad cap the only high point. May not need to lower it, just weld
at 45 degree angle. Probably cost you $50 at local radiator
shop.
-al wick
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 8:42
AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Coolant Water
Pressure
Ok, I recently
upgraded my computer to Vista and had to
download some software to get my camera to talk to it…So here are some
pictures of my cooling install
Notice the bypass
hole that you guys are talking about needing to plug. This hole is in
the housing which has been removed, so it is not a
player.
The little rag you
see on the oil line is a high tech way of checking for a leak. (I have
one!)
The red wire is the
air temp sensor for the air after the radiator. It is on top of the
fan.
Hoses are 1 ¼”
The temperature sensor was moved from the left side of the inlet to the
top
But is reading
temperature as it enters the engine after the radiator. (coolest
place)
My overflow catch
can. I will be replacing this with a pressurized on as per Lynn’s suggestions in a
previous post in order to introduce
An air cushion above
the liquid under pressure so it will not be
“locked”.
I am planning to try
and put suction on the cowling at the exit with a leaf blower in addition to
the prop blast and the small fan to see if an increase in
Air flowing will
help. I haven’t checked the sides of the radiator yet as I have been
alone when running the engine….
All inputs
appreciated. I already know some things should be changed, so don’t hold
back with the suggestions.
Thanks,
Bill
B
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