flyrotary@lancaironline.net Mailing List Archive

Mark,

Yes I will be there on Saturday. I suppose it is too much to ask for you to fly your plane there??? :>)

You know, I think my 360 degree kink is going to require around 40 knots in order to have the energy to make all those turns….Right now a 120 knot test is going to require a trailer hitch! J

The location for the temp measurement is basically stock. The stock sending unit was metric and too large to use with the one that came with the EM-2, so I plugged it and tapped a smaller hole on top as opposed to the stock location on the side of the inlet. I was wondering why the stock location measured temps incoming to the engine if it is better to measure outgoing temps.

Bill B

From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Mark Steitle
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 7:48 PM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Coolant Water Pressure

Hi Bill,

Looks like you've made great progress since we last spoke. It shouldn't be long now. Are you planning on attending Tracy's (actually, I should say Laura's) rotary roundup? Lots to talk about.

Concerning your cooling system, I assume the air comes in the backside of the radictor? What kind of inlet & diffuser did you use? I measured my airflow today through the radiator. It flows 40 knots at 120 knots IAS. It may be a little fast. You may want to measure yours, when the time comes.

You mentioned that you were measuring coolant temperature after the radiator? I think you also need to measure it as it leaves the engine. This will tell you how hot you're running and how close you are to redline. Just the opposite as for the oil.

If those hose clamps are not constant torque clamps, please consider upgrading them before first flight. They're available from McMaster.

Keep up the good work. Hope to see you at Tracy's.

Mark S.

On 10/6/07, Bill Bradburry <bbradburry@bellsouth.net> wrote:

Ok, I recently upgraded my computer to Vista and had to download some software to get my camera to talk to it…So here are some pictures of my cooling install

Notice the bypass hole that you guys are talking about needing to plug. This hole is in the housing which has been removed, so it is not a player.

The little rag you see on the oil line is a high tech way of checking for a leak. (I have one!)

The red wire is the air temp sensor for the air after the radiator. It is on top of the fan.

Hoses are 1 ¼" The temperature sensor was moved from the left side of the inlet to the top

But is reading temperature as it enters the engine after the radiator. (coolest place)

My overflow catch can. I will be replacing this with a pressurized on as per Lynn's suggestions in a previous post in order to introduce

An air cushion above the liquid under pressure so it will not be "locked".

I am planning to try and put suction on the cowling at the exit with a leaf blower in addition to the prop blast and the small fan to see if an increase in

Air flowing will help. I haven't checked the sides of the radiator yet as I have been alone when running the engine….

All inputs appreciated. I already know some things should be changed, so don't hold back with the suggestions.

Thanks,

Bill B

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