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Thanks for the suggestions, Lynn.
I did drill several 3/8" holes in the rim of the thermostat
(used Mazda RX-7 type that plugs the by-pass hole) thinking that my "Plugs
Up" position was trapping an air bubble at the thermostat housing.
However, nothing I did appeared to work. I use a 22-24 psi Stant Cap
which works fine. I would burp the engine as I normally do (takes about 3
run ups to 5000 + rpm to get the air out) and while the coolant system level
would stop lowering (indicating that the air was gone) - it wouldn't cool enough
on the ground to even consider flying with it. I do have the by-pass hole
plugged as I normally do not use a thermostat - so its possible that in the
plugs up position that plugging the hole is somehow interfering with the air
removal/coolant flow.
This was all 4-5 years ago and could be I was just
overlooking something - but, couldn't figure out what it was, so pulled out the
thermostat.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 11:53
PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Copperstate
Fly-in (was: Rotary Round up 2006)
I've tried a thermostat twice and almost
cooked my engine both times - so I have given up on one. Besides, I
can normally pick when I fly (being retired) and don't go flying when its
cruel to my body.{:>)
Ed
I run a 160 degree thermostat in the cool months in the race car. I drill
a 1/4" hole through the rim of the thermostat so any air can slip right
through. Adding 1 teaspoon of dishwashing detergent, or Redline water,wetter,
helps dump the air and helps cooling just a bit. The 1/4' hole will add some
range should the thermostat fail. Use a make-up tank with a 22 pound Stant
lever cap.
Don't fail to block the bypass hole and use a US style thermostat.
Lynn E. Hanover
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