|
Message
Tried Rusty's idea this morning by reinstalling the
"failed" leading plugs. They worked perfectly. (perfect is a
relative term:0)
I am really
baffled as to what caused the false positive that the coil was
defective.
Any ideas out
there?
TJ<><
If you want to look on the bright side, this is
actually less mysterious than having both plugs turn out to be bad at the
same time. The leading coil, and it's wiring is common to both,
so that has to be the prime suspect. The next thing I would do is
crank the engine, put it on the B controller, and disable the trailing
ignition (have someone hold the switch). Now that you're running on
Leading only, start wiggling the wiring harness between the EC-2, and
leading coil. Also do the wires to the ignition disable
switch.
I can think of the following possible causes (in order
of likelihood):
1- There's a broken or shorted wire between the EC-2
and Leading coil. Wiggling the wires while running only on leading should
find this.
2- There really is a problem with the leading
coil. Ignition coils are notorious for breaking down when they're
hot, either by use, or outside temp. Buying used coils could be a bad
investment, since they've been cooked in the car they were in.
3- There's a broken or shorted wire, or switch in the
wiring to the coil disable switch. Try also wiggling the switch side to
side a little while holding in the disable position. Can't see a bad
switch being very
likely.
If you don't find the cause in your testing, I
would replace the leading coil based on suspicion. If you do nothing,
you can be pretty sure that you'll be seeing it again some day. Take your
best shot at fixing it, then proceed with your cooling experiments, while
keeping a watchful eye for the problem to return. If you go months
without the problem coming back, throw the coil away, just to make sure you
never use it again.
Good luck,
Rusty (I make my living off intermittent
problems)
|