Return-Path: <13brv3@bellsouth.net> Received: from imf24aec.mail.bellsouth.net ([205.152.59.72] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.1.4) with ESMTP id 2604390 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Fri, 26 Sep 2003 00:12:58 -0400 Received: from rad ([68.212.13.204]) by imf24aec.mail.bellsouth.net (InterMail vM.5.01.05.27 201-253-122-126-127-20021220) with ESMTP id <20030926041257.TDMT1810.imf24aec.mail.bellsouth.net@rad> for ; Fri, 26 Sep 2003 00:12:57 -0400 From: "Russell Duffy" <13brv3@bellsouth.net> To: "'Rotary motors in aircraft'" Subject: RE: [FlyRotary] Re: Coil problem or is it? Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 23:12:57 -0500 Message-ID: <000001c383e4$77aec370$0201a8c0@rad> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0001_01C383BA.8ED8BB70" X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook, Build 10.0.4510 Importance: Normal In-Reply-To: X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C383BA.8ED8BB70 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Tried Rusty's idea this morning by reinstalling the "failed" leading = plugs. They worked perfectly. (perfect is a relative term:0) =20 I am really baffled as to what caused the false positive that the coil = was defective. Any ideas out there? TJ<><=20 =20 If you want to look on the bright side, this is actually less mysterious than having both plugs turn out to be bad at the same time. The leading coil, and it's wiring is common to both, so that has to be the prime suspect. The next thing I would do is crank the engine, put it on the B controller, and disable the trailing ignition (have someone hold the switch). Now that you're running on Leading only, start wiggling the = wiring harness between the EC-2, and leading coil. Also do the wires to the ignition disable switch. =20 =20 I can think of the following possible causes (in order of likelihood): =20 1- There's a broken or shorted wire between the EC-2 and Leading coil. Wiggling the wires while running only on leading should find this. =20 2- There really is a problem with the leading coil. Ignition coils are notorious for breaking down when they're hot, either by use, or outside temp. Buying used coils could be a bad investment, since they've been cooked in the car they were in. =20 3- There's a broken or shorted wire, or switch in the wiring to the coil disable switch. Try also wiggling the switch side to side a little = while holding in the disable position. Can't see a bad switch being very = likely. =20 If you don't find the cause in your testing, I would replace the leading coil based on suspicion. If you do nothing, you can be pretty sure that you'll be seeing it again some day. Take your best shot at fixing it, = then proceed with your cooling experiments, while keeping a watchful eye for = the problem to return. If you go months without the problem coming back, = throw the coil away, just to make sure you never use it again.=20 =20 Good luck, Rusty (I make my living off intermittent problems) =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C383BA.8ED8BB70 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Message
Tried Rusty's idea this morning by reinstalling = the=20 "failed" leading plugs.  They worked perfectly.  (perfect is a = relative term:0) 
I am = really=20 baffled as to what caused the false positive that the coil was=20 defective.
Any = ideas out=20 there?
TJ<>< 
 
If you want to look on the bright side, = this is=20 actually less mysterious than having both plugs turn out to be bad = at the=20 same time.  The leading coil, and it's wiring is common to both,=20 so that has to be the prime suspect.  The next thing I would = do is=20 crank the engine, put it on the B controller, and disable the = trailing=20 ignition (have someone hold the switch).  Now that you're running = on=20 Leading only, start wiggling the wiring harness between the EC-2, = and=20 leading coil.  Also do the wires to the ignition disable=20 switch.   
 
I can think of the following possible causes = (in order=20 of likelihood):
 
1- There's a broken or shorted wire between = the EC-2=20 and Leading coil.  Wiggling the wires while running only on leading = should=20 find this. 
2- There really is a problem with the = leading=20 coil.  Ignition coils are notorious for breaking down when = they're=20 hot, either by use, or outside temp.  Buying used coils could = be a bad=20 investment, since they've been cooked in the car they were in. =20
3- There's a broken or shorted wire, or = switch in the=20 wiring to the coil disable switch.  Try also wiggling the switch = side to=20 side a little while holding in the disable position.  Can't see a = bad=20 switch being very=20 likely.  
=
 
If you don't find the cause in your = testing, I=20 would replace the leading coil based on suspicion.  If you do = nothing,=20 you can be pretty sure that you'll be seeing it again some day.  = Take your=20 best shot at fixing it, then proceed with your cooling experiments, = while=20 keeping a watchful eye for the problem to return.  If you go = months=20 without the problem coming back, throw the coil away, just to make sure = you=20 never use it again. 
 
Good luck,
Rusty (I make my living off intermittent=20 problems)   
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