From: Rotary motors in aircraft
[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
Behalf Of Bulent Aliev
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006
7:00 AM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re:
Suitability of NPG for Rotary Engine use
The only reason for using this stuff is
to make the people selling it happy.
I have never seen it in a racing
situation. Distilled water, maybe 10% antifreeze, a teaspoon full of
dishwashing soap. Put the 18-24 pound pressure cap on the make up tank. Get the
air out of the system and that is the best you can do. At 6,000 RPM the stock
pump will empty the coolant in 10 seconds or less.
If it won't cool with the above setup, it
isn't the setup. Its airflow/exchanger size/ distribution.
All bets are off for turbo installations.
On cool days we run a 160 degree
thermostat and tape off part of the radiator (Griffin).
Normally, (up to the hottest days) no
thermostat, full radiator. Top temp is 180. Oil is 190.
It takes a big oil radiator to cool a
rotary. I have three 13 row Setrabs.
If you watch the movies of the
instruments after a race, you would think the engine must be junk. Not the case
at all. Even an early downshift that takes the engine right past the rev limit
(the drivers other hobby) of 9,600 RPM
has no affect at all.
I have yet to see an aircraft
installation that looked like it could put out more than 200 HP.
The two GM cores are enough for water.
Oil is a poor transfer medium so it takes a bigger cooler to do the same job
(remove the same number of BTUs per second).
There is just no magic involved. There is
no need to reinvent the wheel for each installation.
If you have cooling problems at 180 HP,
how will you ever enjoy a 200 HP installation?
The HP is the easy part. Get the cooling
right first.
Just my opinion,............I could be
wrong.
Are there any opinions on a good airfoil
for 2,400 pounds going 200 MPH?