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I am surprised!!
I thought this was common practice already!!
What should you safetywire??
Everything that can cause a day to
go sour, if that particular bolt lets go!!!
Obviously there are some high quality bolts in that engine and
frankly you have no choice to use them ( unless there is better aftermarket
pieces) - housing through bolts, excentershaft nut, etc.
BUT guys, remember, we are still
dealing with a car manufacturers engine! They will save pennies if they can.
Engine dies on the road, so what!? Engine dies in the air, then
what!!
Mazda will save on safetywire, boltquality, locktite wherever
they can - no blame, just fact, everyone does it.
However you don't see Lycontlin (Lyc - Cont - Frank) save on
safetywire - if the thing stops the lawyers are going to be all over
them!
So for me it will be to look at everyone bolt and ask
myself:
a. What does it?
b. Can it loosen/back-out by itself?
c. What will happen if b. happens?
You might say, well go overboard and safetywire
everything, but then every little job you have on the engine is half a
nightmare cutting wires and re-applying them again.
So, that's why you want to do the a.b.c.
If there is bolts/nuts that can go without wire fine.
Sometimes a Pal-nut will do, if you have access to a bolt (Half the Robinson
helicopter doesn't have wires, but Pal-nuts).
A Rotary does vibrate, just way less
than the Lyco-gang, but on a higher frequency. If it can shake loose, it will,
eventually....
Basically I will replace all non-quality bolts (WP, dipstick,
CAS, misc. intake/exhaust, etc.) with aviation quality bolts, even those cost
half a fortune. If not available it will be the best the aftermarket has to
offer, then the best the industrial hardware store has.
Grade5 gets replaced with Grade8 etc.
I think Lyn's procedure is more than you need. Just drill the
head and chamfer. Once you are torqued down, safetywire according to A&P
procedures - in a way it only can tighten itself but not loosen. Might not look
as great, but saves time and it is not critical if mix some bolts (WP
e.g.)
Pulley-nuts might work with a Pal-nut...
Exhaust also or safetywire...
Hoseclamps safetywire if they are essential - if the hose
stays in place, no big deal, but if the hose comes off without the clamp -
safetywire!
Starterbolts/buts
Alternator
Oilpan bolts safetywire
.......??
CHECK EVERYTHING!......
TJ
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 6:22 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: water pump bolts
- warning
In a message dated 5/15/2006 1:50:30 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, WRJJRS@aol.com writes:
Can anybody here say SAFETY WIRE?!!!
Bill Jepson
I was hoping somebody would say that.
Torque up the bolts.
Draw a line across the bolt head to indicate the correct hole
vector.
One at a time remove the bolts and drill and chamfer the wire
holes.
Reinstall the bolts, one at a time.
Torque the bolts.
Wire the bolts.
Bolt drilling blocks available from most tool suppliers and Hot Rod
shops/Catalogues.
Have you thought about those two crap bolts that hold the oil pickup tube
onto the engine?
Shouldn't they be high quality socket head cap screws, torqued and safety
wired together?
Lynn E. Hanover
(Quietly putting soap box
away)
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