X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imo-m27.mx.aol.com ([64.12.137.8] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.0.8) with ESMTP id 975929 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Thu, 09 Feb 2006 11:04:57 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=64.12.137.8; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-m27.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r6.3.) id q.da.35d9e4f9 (48576) for ; Thu, 9 Feb 2006 11:04:04 -0500 (EST) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2006 11:04:03 EST Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Six port bolt-on manfold progress (was: RX-8) To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1139501043" X-Mailer: 9.0 SE for Windows sub 5022 X-Spam-Flag: NO -------------------------------1139501043 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 2/9/2006 9:50:46 AM Eastern Standard Time, echristley@nc.rr.com writes: Even with perfectly balanced or weightless rotors, wouldn't the problem with 9000RPM be the centrifugal pressure of the apex seals on the rotor housings? Can they stand that sort of continuous workload, or would it just require pumping more oil into the chamber? -- ,|"|"|, Ernest Christley | ----===<{{(oQo)}}>===---- Dyke Delta Builder | o| d |o www.ernest.isa-geek.org | The stock apex seals should hold up fine. When in doubt install Tracy's seals, or go all the way downtown and spring for the ceramic seals. Less drag, even with 2 springs, and no detectable weight. You have to pick one up to believe it. The first thing you will notice once you feel visits to 9,000 RPM are more fun, Is a shine around the front end of the rear main bearing. This is the crank flex allowing the shaft to touch the overly right through the oil film. I scrape a bit off with a blade and shine the bearings with 600 silicone carbide paper in solvent. Next will be the corner seals hanging up in the holes and causing power loss that comes and goes. This is the crank flexing more, and allowing the tips of the rotors to touch the iron. The upset may be momentary or permanent on the first touch. Cutting .015" off of the rotor sides outboard of the oil scraper grooves will prevent that. Go slow. Deburr the corner seal holes and side seal grooves when done. The additional BTUs per second will be way more than your cooling system can deal with, so add a bunch of oil cooling just to start. If you plan to turbo anyway, forget the Pport. Way too much port timing for a boosted engine. Use a controller with a knock detecter that can snatch away ignition advance on the first ping. Use the racing bearings all around. Use at least 100 PSI of name brand synthetic racing oil. I use 40 wt Redline. This will be the limit on stress for the stock pump, so I would scrap it and the chain at annual, or go to an external racing pump. With water spray on the intercooler and oil cooler, you should be able to leave Sun&Fun in the vertical. Don't forget fuel delivery and oil pickup location may be a problem. Once up, control cooling with the throttle. Lynn E. Hanover -------------------------------1139501043 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

In a message dated 2/9/2006 9:50:46 AM Eastern Standard Time,=20 echristley@nc.rr.com writes:

<= FONT=20 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size= =3D2>Even=20 with perfectly balanced or weightless rotors, wouldn't the problem
wit= h=20 9000RPM be the centrifugal pressure of the apex seals on the rotor=20
housings? Can they stand that sort of continuous workload, or wo= uld=20 it
just require pumping more oil into the chamber?

--
= ;=20 ,|"|"|, = ;=20 Ernest Christley =20 |
----=3D=3D=3D<{{(oQo)}}>=3D=3D=3D---- Dyke D= elta=20 Builder |
o| d =20 |o www.ernest.isa-geek.org =20 |

The stock apex seals should hold up fine. When in doubt install Tracy's= =20 seals, or go all the way downtown and spring for the ceramic seals. Less dra= g,=20 even with 2 springs, and no detectable weight. You have to pick one up to=20 believe it.

The first thing you will notice once you feel visits to 9,000 RPM are m= ore=20 fun, Is a shine around the front end of the rear main bearing. This is the c= rank=20 flex allowing the shaft to touch the overly right through the oil film. I sc= rape=20 a bit off with a blade and shine the bearings with 600 silicone carbide pape= r in=20 solvent.

Next will be the corner seals hanging up in the holes and causing power= =20 loss that comes and goes. This is the crank flexing more, and allowing the t= ips=20 of the rotors to touch the iron. The upset may be momentary or permanent on=20= the=20 first touch. Cutting .015" off of the rotor sides outboard of the oil scrape= r=20 grooves will prevent that. Go slow. Deburr the corner seal holes and side se= al=20 grooves when done.

The additional BTUs per second will be way more than your cooling syste= m=20 can deal with, so add a bunch of oil cooling just to start.

If you plan to turbo anyway, forget the Pport. Way too much port timing= for=20 a boosted engine.

Use a controller with a knock detecter that can snatch away ignition=20 advance on the first ping.

Use the racing bearings all around.

Use at least 100 PSI of name brand synthetic racing oil. I use 40 wt=20 Redline.

This will be the limit on stress for the stock pump, so I would scrap i= t=20 and the chain at annual, or go to an external racing pump.

With water spray on the intercooler and oil cooler, you should be able=20= to=20 leave Sun&Fun in the vertical. Don't forget fuel delivery and oil=20 pickup location may be a problem.

Once up, control cooling with the throttle.

Lynn E. Hanover

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