12-31-05
Made the
first attempt to crank the engine today.
This turned out to be a good news/ bad news event. The good news is that it fired up
instantly, and everything seems to work.
The bad news is that it’s rough as a cob :-0
It would
appear that my worst fears about the torque reversals with the RD-1C drive
have come true. I didn’t notice
the rpm, but the engine barely made it over the speed the starter turns
it. In fact, the starter stayed
engaged a couple times, because the engine didn’t accelerate enough to push
the gear back. Did I mention
that’s it’s rough :-) It just
shook the living crap out of the plane, but the engine mounts work well. The
main gear of the plane was actually jumping slightly off the ground. Good thing I was sitting in the plane,
or it really might have been interesting.
While the
engine was running, no amount of throttle changes anything. It’s simply impossible for the engine
to accelerate out of this mode.
BTW, this is EXACTLY how the 912S used to behave on this plane. If you didn’t crank the engine with
enough throttle opening, it would get stuck in the gearbox shaking mode, and
the best thing you could do was shut it down, and try again. Rotax came out with a “slipper clutch” to eliminate the
problem on the 912S.
Next step
will be to remove the prop, and try it that way. Eliminating the rotational mass of the
prop should make it better, if not eliminate the problem altogether. If that works OK, then I may have to
try a different hardness of rubber dampeners on the redrive thrust plate. If it doesn’t work, then I’ll likely
pull the drive itself off, and try it that way.
1-1-05
Much better
today. It appears that some
dumbass marked my pulley wrong :-)
Tracy says to put a new mark on
the pulley that's 35 degrees BTDC, and set the static timing to
that. The RB pulley has 4 equally spaced marks on it- 10 ATDC,
TDC, 10 BTDC, and 20 BTDC. Realizing that these are 10 degrees
apart, I measured the distance, and then figured out what one and a half times
that distance would be. This new distance would be 15 degrees, and if I
put it beyond the 20 BTDC, I'd be at 35 BTDC. Unfortunately, when you
have the pulley turned around backwards on the workbench, and put the new mark
on the OTHER side of the existing marks, it becomes 25
ATDC. When I set the static timing, I set it to my new mark, which
I "knew" was right, so the timing was retarded by 60 degrees.
Amazing it ran at
all.
The good
news is that it runs much better now, even with the prop (didn't try without
it). There is still going to be a resonance issue with the redrive I
believe, as there are a couple RPM's that go into the same rattle mode that I
used to get around 1100 RPM on the 13B. The worst was around 2400 RPM,
and it also seemed rough around 3000, but not as much rattling. I didn't
run over about 4000 rpm, or more than a few minutes, since I suspected
I still had a bit of an oil leak, and didn't want to make too much
of a mess.
There was
oil leaking at the fitting on top of the front housing, which I use to feed
the redrive. This is really a
metric fitting, but 1/8 NPT seems to fit well. I ended up removing the fitting, and
installing a new one, with some miracle gray RTV for good measure. Unfortunately, it leaked plenty during
my few minutes of running. I had the plane tied to the wheel of the
company van, and it is completely covered in oil. I do mean the whole van, not just the
wheel :-) I bet it's really only a half pint or
so, but it sure got spread around by the prop.
I also had
an odd case where the A controller seemed dead. The injectors wouldn’t click when I
pushed the set button, and the engine wouldn’t fire. The B controller worked normally, but
switching to A while running killed the engine dead. After I turned everything off, checked for leaks and such, then
turned it all back on again, the A controller seemed to be working fine. It’s now as if there’s no problem at
all. There's a long time before I could ever consider
flying the plane, so I'll just watch to see if this
returns.
I need to
finish eliminating the leaks, then run it enough to purge any air from the
cooling system, and verify that all is well as far as cooling goes. At that point, I can give auto tune a
try, and then see if I can make some sense out of the torque reversal induced
vibrations.