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Please correct me if I am wrong, but from the description, it sounds as though you have the following setup:
Battery cable goes to contactor ("automotive: solenoid"); another cable runs from contactor output to starter solenoid. "Start" circuit energizes the contactor coil, closing high-current path to starter/solenoid. When start signal is removed, starter continues to spin.
[||B||]-----------(C)-------------(S)-(M)
The latter case is generally because the contactor has stuck "connected" (welded). If you want to prevent this from happening where you can't get out and disconnect it, wire two contactors _in_series_ with the start terminals in parallel, so that they are energized simultaneously.
[||B||]---------(C)--(C)-----------(S)-(M)
Now, if either contactor sticks, the other will still break the high-current circuit, and the motor will stop.
BTW, back when I used to install Ford engines in strange places, I always took care to mount the contactor with the coil UP, so that gravity would work for me in opening the circuit, should the spring fail.
Dale
Bob:
Yes, but come to think of it, IF the Mazda solenoid is just
an electrical contactor, not also a gear engagement mechanism (I don't know),
you could bypass the original solenoid altogether.
Oh-oh, my book indicates you have to use both. The original
engages the gear.
Bob Darrah
Yes it does engage the gear so I did wire the two solonoids
in parallel on the activation wire but I disconected the battery cable from
its' normal input side of the mazda solonoid and put it on the side that has
the cable going to the motor. This way (I thought) no current is going through
the mazda solonoid contacts. In spite of my being convinced this would
solve the problem, I regret to say there is no change: stays running after
starter switch opened.
So doesn't this have to mean that power is getting from the
contacts to the coil of the solonoid???.
Peter
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