Lynn,
A rough sketch would help my minds eye visualize all the parts
of such a scale !! The pivot point for the bar is not clear to me....
Thanks
-- Kelly Troyer Dyke Delta/13B/RD1C/EC2
-------------- Original message from Lehanover@aol.com: --------------
> In a message dated 04/15/2005 10:26 Central Daylight Time, keltro@att.net > writes: > > << Someone correct me if I am wrong.......Different codes > can be used together if not more than two codes apart.......The idea is to > maintain > rotor weights for balancing within factory tolerances.......Lynn keep me > honest here! > -- > Kelly Troyer > Dyke Delta/13B/RD1C/EC2 >> > > > It all sounds good to me. The Japs are anal about a lot of things, and > getting the engine smoother than any piston engine was way high on the list. It > has > a built in rocking couple problem, and a built in torque amplitude problem. So > the counter weights take out the rocking couple, and the 40 pound flywheel > evens out the torque pulses. Presto, smoother than any piston engine. > > So, if you have two good rotors and they have different weights, what to do? > > Build one hell of a sensitive scale. Then use your drill press to remove tiny > amounts of steel from the heavy rotor, until both are the same weight. Use > the counterweights from the lighter rotor's engine. > > The scale can be anything stiff. Like a 2X4 or pieces of square tubing or > round tubing, maybe 6 feet long. The pivot is to be two sharpened bolts through > the (whatever) bar. Then two bent up hangers. Cut two steel 3/8" rods the same > length to start with. Sharpen one end to a fine point, and bend that end into > a 180 with a radius big enough to clear the end of the bar. The other end can > be just a hook to grab the rotor through an oil opening, or a real nice flat > 90 to sit in the bearing hole. > > If your bar is wood nail a scrap of steel plate to each end in exactly the > same place. > Put a punch mark on one plate or on one end of the square stock close to the > end. Make the hangers just long enough so that a rotor on each one will just > clear the floor, or bench. > > With just the hangers, hang one on where your punch mark is installed. Hang > the other in a location that just balances the scale. Reverse the hangers to be > sure they weigh the same. Grind off as required. Mark the location of the > second hanger, and make a punch mark for that one. The punch make is to make a > location that can be found every time, so make just a mark, don't beat a big > depression. The sharp points and hard surfaces generate a near zero friction > pivot point. > > Support the pivot bolt ends on a flat plate between jack stands, or cement > blocks, whatever. > Hang any two rotors. Dump pennies or (If its close) paper clips to balance. > Then reverse the hangers with the rotors left on them to be sure the answer is > the same. > Drill a bit (use a drill stop) from the corner area (look where the factory > did it) and reweigh. After two passes, drill a set on the opposite side of the > rotor. > > If you think it through, you can build a scale that can "see" a paper clip. > And that is close enough. You will notice that the fans must be off, and the > doors closed. > > Lynn E. Hanover > > >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ > >> Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html
|