X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com X-PolluStop-Diagnostic: \eX-PolluStop-Score: 0.00\eX-PolluStop: Scanned with Niversoft PolluStop 2.1 RC1, http://www.niversoft.com/pollustop Return-Path: Received: from imo-d21.mx.aol.com ([205.188.144.207] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.3c4) with ESMTP id 870997 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Fri, 15 Apr 2005 13:48:17 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.144.207; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-d21.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38.7.) id q.15a.4ec5a892 (4262) for ; Fri, 15 Apr 2005 13:47:27 -0400 (EDT) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: <15a.4ec5a892.2f91582f@aol.com> Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 13:47:27 EDT Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: V shape Apex Seal Slots? To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 138 In a message dated 04/15/2005 10:26 Central Daylight Time, keltro@att.net writes: << Someone correct me if I am wrong.......Different codes can be used together if not more than two codes apart.......The idea is to maintain rotor weights for balancing within factory tolerances.......Lynn keep me honest here! -- Kelly Troyer Dyke Delta/13B/RD1C/EC2 >> It all sounds good to me. The Japs are anal about a lot of things, and getting the engine smoother than any piston engine was way high on the list. It has a built in rocking couple problem, and a built in torque amplitude problem. So the counter weights take out the rocking couple, and the 40 pound flywheel evens out the torque pulses. Presto, smoother than any piston engine. So, if you have two good rotors and they have different weights, what to do? Build one hell of a sensitive scale. Then use your drill press to remove tiny amounts of steel from the heavy rotor, until both are the same weight. Use the counterweights from the lighter rotor's engine. The scale can be anything stiff. Like a 2X4 or pieces of square tubing or round tubing, maybe 6 feet long. The pivot is to be two sharpened bolts through the (whatever) bar. Then two bent up hangers. Cut two steel 3/8" rods the same length to start with. Sharpen one end to a fine point, and bend that end into a 180 with a radius big enough to clear the end of the bar. The other end can be just a hook to grab the rotor through an oil opening, or a real nice flat 90 to sit in the bearing hole. If your bar is wood nail a scrap of steel plate to each end in exactly the same place. Put a punch mark on one plate or on one end of the square stock close to the end. Make the hangers just long enough so that a rotor on each one will just clear the floor, or bench. With just the hangers, hang one on where your punch mark is installed. Hang the other in a location that just balances the scale. Reverse the hangers to be sure they weigh the same. Grind off as required. Mark the location of the second hanger, and make a punch mark for that one. The punch make is to make a location that can be found every time, so make just a mark, don't beat a big depression. The sharp points and hard surfaces generate a near zero friction pivot point. Support the pivot bolt ends on a flat plate between jack stands, or cement blocks, whatever. Hang any two rotors. Dump pennies or (If its close) paper clips to balance. Then reverse the hangers with the rotors left on them to be sure the answer is the same. Drill a bit (use a drill stop) from the corner area (look where the factory did it) and reweigh. After two passes, drill a set on the opposite side of the rotor. If you think it through, you can build a scale that can "see" a paper clip. And that is close enough. You will notice that the fans must be off, and the doors closed. Lynn E. Hanover