Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: flyrotary Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 09:54:50 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from [128.83.126.160] (HELO mail.utexas.edu) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.1b6) with SMTP id 2365877 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Wed, 28 May 2003 08:57:38 -0400 Received: (qmail 76981 invoked from network); 28 May 2003 12:57:37 -0000 Received: from dhcp-191-101.per.utexas.edu (HELO benefits3.mail.utexas.edu) (146.6.191.101) by wb14.mail.utexas.edu with SMTP; 28 May 2003 12:57:37 -0000 X-Original-Message-Id: <5.1.1.5.2.20030528075533.020d7218@localhost> X-Sender: msteitle@mail.utexas.edu@localhost X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Version 5.1.1 X-Original-Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 07:57:26 -0500 X-Original-To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" From: Mark Steitle Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: oil return location? In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="=====================_3658234==.ALT" --=====================_3658234==.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 01:39 AM 5/28/2003 -0400, you wrote: >I ended up using a Parker SS bulkhead fitting through the wall of the oil >pan, forward of the level sensor & 1/2" from the top of oil pan. After >much procrastinating and trying to find an easier way, I finally removed >the bottom left engine mount, oil pan, installed the fitting, remounted >the pan & mount all in less than an hour > > > >Unfortunately, it would take a lot more than an hour for mine. I d have >to pull the engine to get the oil pan off. I actually have plenty of >return opportunities via the front cover. As I mentioned in my reply to >Mike s message, I just don t see a problem returning the redrive oil to >the oil pan bolt hole though. > > > >If you just return to the normal port at the bottom of the engine, then >you must still connect those 2 ports with the pipe plugs in them. If you >don't your engine will get no oil. > > > >I find this hard to believe. Bruce spent a good bit of time telling me >what port to connect to what. I just can t believe that he would leave >out such an important detail that would destroy the engine. If he had >meant for me to use those ports, he would have left them open, rather than >sealing them shut. I ll certainly check with him to be sure though. > > > >You know, while at first thought, it seems a good idea the way that Bruce >has machined off the oil pad, it now seems to me that it is better left on >to allow mounting of a bypass plate where it is easy to tap off oil for >other uses. > >I agree with this. If I had known more about it, I would have told Bruce >to leave the pad. Heck, with the butt ugly cowl I m growing now, I might >have been able to fit the oil filter in there. > >Cheers, > >Rusty > > > >PS- I got my new Miller Dynasty 200 DX welder, but I haven t even opened >the box. As much as I want to play with it, I just don t have time to try >to learn how to weld at the moment. > > > > Rusty, Someone once said, "when all you have is a hammer, the whole world looks like a nail." So, my advice is... learn to weld. The world will look a lot different. Mark S. --=====================_3658234==.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" At 01:39 AM 5/28/2003 -0400, you wrote:

I ended up using a Parker SS bulkhead fitting through the wall of the oil pan, forward of the level sensor & 1/2" from the top of oil pan. After much procrastinating and trying to find an easier way, I finally removed the bottom left engine mount, oil pan, installed the fitting, remounted the pan & mount all in less than an hour

 

Unfortunately, it would take a lot more than an hour for mine.  I d have to pull the engine to get the oil pan off.  I actually have plenty of return opportunities via the front cover.  As I mentioned in my reply to Mike s message, I just don t see a problem returning the redrive oil to the oil pan bolt hole though. 

 

If you just return to the normal port at the bottom of the engine, then you must still connect those 2 ports with the pipe plugs in them. If you don't your engine will get no oil.

 

I find this hard to believe.  Bruce spent a good bit of time telling me what port to connect to what.  I just can t believe that he would leave out such an important detail that would destroy the engine.  If he had meant for me to use those ports, he would have left them open, rather than sealing them shut.  I ll certainly check with him to be sure though. 

 

You know, while at first thought, it seems a good idea the way that Bruce has machined off the oil pad, it now seems to me that it is better left on to allow mounting of a bypass plate where it is easy to tap off oil for other uses.

I agree with this.  If I had known more about it, I would have told Bruce to leave the pad.  Heck, with the butt ugly cowl I m growing now, I might have been able to fit the oil filter in there. 

Cheers,

Rusty

 

PS- I got my new Miller Dynasty 200 DX welder, but I haven t even opened the box.  As much as I want to play with it, I just don t have time to try to learn how to weld at the moment.  

 

 

Rusty,
Someone once said, "when all you have is a hammer, the whole world looks like a nail."  So, my advice is... learn to weld.  The world will look a lot different.

Mark S.

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