Return-Path: Received: from pop3.olsusa.com ([63.150.212.2] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 3.4.7) with ESMTP id 791551 for rob@logan.com; Sun, 27 May 2001 19:26:11 -0400 Received: from imo-r04.mx.aol.com ([152.163.225.100]) by pop3.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-71175U5500L550S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Sun, 27 May 2001 17:59:54 -0400 Received: from JMcKibbin@aol.com by imo-r04.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v30.22.) id k.bb.ec7c26f (3927) for ; Sun, 27 May 2001 18:07:12 -0400 (EDT) From: JMcKibbin@aol.com Message-ID: Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 18:07:11 EDT Subject: Re: Gear, GM 1, to long for the 320/360 Spars? To: lancair.list@olsusa.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Reply-To: lancair.list@olsusa.com <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> Although this thread ran a few days ago, I have been on vacation (still am, actually) so I didn't see it. Hope the following is still of some relevance. When I discovered that the gear legs in my LNC2 were too long to fit between the main and rear spars, I contacted Lancair. They said they were aware of this happening on a few early kits and immediately offered to fix it. I sent them the two gear legs along with some dimensions of exactly how long I needed them. They had their supplier (Snowline ?) rework the legs to my specifications and then repaint them for FREE. I also had them remove the lever for the cable actuated inner gear doors at the same time. My only costs in all of this were shipping. My kit dates from 1989 (SN 476, FB 45, IIRC). It was in the mid-nineties that I had the rework done. Whether they are still doing this for free I don't know but it sure wouldn't hurt to ask! Although it will take a couple of weeks, it is the cleanest solution for this problem, IMHO. Although the following cautions should be obvious, I will mention them anyway. The critical dimension is between the faces of the trunnion shoulders, not the ends of the trunnions. The ends can be ground off if you have to. You should measure the available distance as accurately as possible (not easy since it is an inside measurement) and then specify them a little short (e.g., 1/32 to 1/16 inch) and make up the difference with a buildup of BIDs under the aft bearing block. That way you have a little left-right adjustment to get the wheel alignment correct and still get a nice tight fit between the spherical bearings and the shoulders on the gear legs and thus avoid having the gear legs shift fore-and-aft during use. Jim McKibbin >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html LML Builders' Bookstore: http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>