Return-Path: Received: from pop3.olsusa.com ([63.150.212.2] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 3.4.5) with ESMTP id 777482 for rob@logan.com; Sat, 12 May 2001 09:43:52 -0400 Received: from sam.the-i.net ([206.136.176.251]) by pop3.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-71175U5500L550S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Sat, 12 May 2001 09:36:40 -0400 Received: from pavilion (unverified [216.86.8.205]) by sam.the-i.net (Vircom SMTPRS 4.4.184) with SMTP id for ; Sat, 12 May 2001 08:43:20 -0500 Message-ID: <001401c0dae9$d7786280$cd0856d8@pavilion> From: "J. N. Cameron" To: "Lancair List" Subject: ES: Elevator gaps & aileron profile Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 08:45:39 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Reply-To: lancair.list@olsusa.com <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> If the rear spar of the HStab on the ES is not exactly vertical, then the geometry of getting the hinge line correct becomes even more complicated, as noted in Skip Slater's posting. It isn't the position of the hinge bases that matter, but rather the actual hinge bearing centerline. If the spar tilts forward, then the hinge base has to be lower on the spar in order for the bearing center to be where it's supposed to be. Add that to the asymmetrical shape of most of them, and you've got a real geometry head-scratcher. There's no perfect solution. On the aileron thing, the TE of the fast-build wing in the outboard area where the ailerons mount is not as thick as the aileron. The best thing to do here is to fit the bottom skin (on top, actually, in the jigs) with the upper cradles fastened down, then add some small wood pegs or shims to the outboard three ribs until the TE of the wing skin matches up with the aileron profile. Then put release tape on the wing skin and do a flox release on those three ribs and the aft spar web, tapered from the main spar aft to the shims or pegs. The aileron hinge blocks should not be put in until after this is done; otherwise you'll have aileron hinges off center, and the same variable gap problem as on the elevators. And, by the way, you'll probably have to chew out some of the core forward of the TE of the lower wing skin in order to have room for the aileron counterweights. Jim Cameron N143ES reserved >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html LML Builders' Bookstore: http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>