Return-Path: Received: from pop3.olsusa.com ([63.150.212.2] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 3.4.5) with ESMTP id 773910 for rob@logan.com; Fri, 04 May 2001 17:50:50 -0400 Received: from sam.the-i.net ([206.136.176.251]) by pop3.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-71175U5500L550S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Fri, 4 May 2001 17:43:41 -0400 Received: from pavilion (unverified [206.136.177.77]) by sam.the-i.net (Vircom SMTPRS 4.4.184) with SMTP id for ; Fri, 4 May 2001 16:45:13 -0500 Message-ID: <000b01c0d4e3$cc10ed60$4db188ce@pavilion> From: "J. N. Cameron" To: "Lancair List" Subject: Buffing small parts Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 16:47:13 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Reply-To: lancair.list@olsusa.com <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> Here's a tip for buffing small parts that some of you may find useful: Since polyurethane (as in paint) is a plastic, I thought maybe my old plexiglass buffing setup might work well for the kinds of small parts you can't attack with the usual 7" buffer. It works like a champ! I have a standard 1/3hp electric fan motor (1725) rpm bolted to a bench, with a 1/2" arbor attached to the motor shaft with set screws. I use two stitched cotton buffing wheels with one or two unstitched wheels in between. The arbor and buffing wheels are available from Grainer Supply and other tool supply houses. To make the combined wheels softer for buffing plastic, I remove about 1" of stitching on the wheels on each end. As the wheels wear, I keep about 1" unstitched, otherwise the wheel gets too hard and the risk of burning the work goes 'way up. For buffing compound, DO NOT use the usual metal buffing rouges -- they are much too aggressive for plastics. There is a blue buffing compound available from the Eastwood Company, Item #13138 ($5.99 for a large tube www.eastwoodco.com ) that works very well. Peel the cardboard away for about 1", push against the buffing wheel until it gets good and blue, and buff away! Some cautions: Go easy, because if you push too hard, or buff too long in one place, you can burn the work. Be extra careful around edges -- they heat up much more quickly. Also, the buffing wheels have a way of grabbing an edge once in a while and flinging it at high velocity! Always have the wheel rotating so that the top is coming toward you, and the part you push against travelling downward. That way, if something does grab, it'll go on the floor, not in your face. As an extra precaution, I put a rubber mat on the floor (a piece of old rug will do), so that the occasional flung thing will often be salvageable. This doesn't happen often, but it can ruin your day. Also, be sure to wear short sleeves, no loose shirt-tails -- the exposed end of the arbor could wind up a lot of cloth in a hurry. Ditto for long hair. I used this today to buff my rudder trim tab, and am very pleased with the results. With about 5 minutes' work I got a beautiful gloss, ready for wax and some flying. I plan to use if for other trim tabs, inspection covers, and anything else that's hard to hold down for the gorilla buffer. Incidentally, I originally put this together for buffing small plexiglass parts. After wet-sanding with 400, you can get a glass-like finish on a piece of plexi in just a short time. Jim Cameron Super ES N143ES (reserved) >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html LML Builders' Bookstore: http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>