Return-Path: Received: from ddi.digital.net ([198.69.104.2]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO203-101c) ID# 0-44819U2500L250S0) with ESMTP id AAA449 for ; Fri, 23 Oct 1998 05:39:31 -0400 Received: from john (max-tnt-90.digital.net [208.14.41.90]) by ddi.digital.net (8.9.1/8.9.1) with SMTP id FAA25585 for ; Fri, 23 Oct 1998 05:39:37 -0400 (EDT) Message-Id: <3.0.3.32.19981023053706.006e74f8@mail.digital.net> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 05:37:06 -0400 To: lancair.list@olsusa.com From: John Cooper Subject: Hard points In-Reply-To: <36300896.19A9@CPro.co.za> X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> >Have anybody considered using round pieces of phenolic for hard points. >It sure would be simpler to drill a hole with a hole saw into pre-preg, >than to cut a square hole with a dremel. Yes, this is the way to go. Cut out your 1/4" phenolic on a drill press using a 7/8" hole saw with a 3/16" pilot. (I cut halfway through from one side, then flip it over to finish the cut.) This will leave you with a little "button" which is 3/4" diameter. Use a file to remove the flashing on the circumference of the button. Then using a 1/2" counterbore (a plain drill will work), relieve the pilot hole on one face so the head of an AN-3-XX bolt will fit down into it and not protrude up beyond the face of the button. There are several ways to install the hardpoints: 1. Inlaid from the back (easiest). 2. Inlaid from the front (where you can't get to the back side or don't want to mess up the surface there) 3. On top of the core (where you don't want to cut into the skin or need a raised hardpoint). Method 1 & 2: Then with a 3/4" hole saw, cut thru the skin and core of the area where you plan to install the hard point. Cut thru ONE SIDE ONLY (except for the pilot hole). Remove the skin and core with screwdriver or something. Rough up the head and neck of your appropriate-length of AN-3-XX bolt and sand the faces of the phenolic with 80 grit paper to remove all shininess. Sand an area around the hole on the side where you will be applying the bid tapes. Flox the hardpoint into the waiting hole, and apply two-bid over the side where you cut the hole. If you are using "Method 2" and need to cut a hole in your bid tapes, use a leather punch. Method 3: Prep the button, bolt and skin as above, but use structural adhesive to stick the button onto the skin where you want the hardpoint. (You will have to analyze whether the surface you are bonding to has enough plys to carry whatever load you intend the hardpoint to carry - add more glass if necessary.) Make a fillet of structural adhesive around the perimeter of the button. (The phenolic sticks better to the structural adhesive than to the flox.) The next day, when the thing has set up, grind a nice smooth radius around the top edge of the button, and grind off any excess structural adhesive, being careful not to cut into the fiberglass underneath. Apply two or three bid over the top of the button. (Cut a hole in the center for the bolt using a 3/16" leather punch). In some places where the load was light, I omitted the bid tapes over the top.