Return-Path: Received: from marvkaye.olsusa.com ([205.245.9.245]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO203-101c) ID# 0-44819U2500L250S0) with SMTP id AAA25806 for ; Sat, 17 Oct 1998 02:06:34 -0400 Message-Id: <3.0.3.32.19981017020441.0072da8c@olsusa.com> Date: Sat, 17 Oct 1998 02:04:41 -0400 To: lancair.list@olsusa.com From: Marvin Kaye Subject: Pre-preg coring tool X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> I received a post last night from Bill Gradwohl which outlined the construction of a simple yet effective tool for the removal of core material from pre-preg. The letter which accompanied his photos is included here, and it's also on the LML homepage in textfile form located in the Attachments area (http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html#attach) along with a composite of several of the photos. Enjoy! >>>>>>>>>> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 1998 22:55:46 -0500 From: "Bill Gradwohl" To: marvkaye@olsusa.com Subject: PrePreg coring tool I don't know if anyone else would find the attached interesting, but it is a tool to uniformly remove an 1/8" core from a piece of prepreg. The depth is a matter of choice during tool construction. Coring is obviously required prior to forming a cap strip or in general bonding prepreg pieces. I found that removing the core material from prepreg prior to filling with micro a hit an miss proposition. Using a miniature die grinder took too long and didn't give a consistent depth. Sometimes a slight body movement would cut a hole through the side of the piece I was working on. Other times I would plunge to deep and end up needing too much micro (weight). I put this tool together in about an hour. It makes coring quick and easy and always to a consistent depth. It's just a piece of 2x4 with six hack saw blades buried in it with one end of the blades flush with the 2x4 surface, and the other end raised up 1/8" above the surface. There is a small fence to act as a guide to push the prepreg piece past the teeth on the hacksaw blades. The distance between the fence and the hacksaw blades is the thickness of one skin of the prepreg material. The hacksaw teeth make quick work of the core material after a few passes. It will core out standard 1/4" prepreg material and will also core out larger sizes by flipping the piece you are working on. I cut a kerf in to the 2x4 deep enough so that one end of the hacksaw blades was flush with the surface. I just positioned the blades at the other end so that 1/8" was above the surface. The width of the kerf is just enough to squeeze the blades in. I poured in epoxy and waited for it to set up. Then I mounted the fence with a few screws. I found that positioning the hacksaw blades with the teeth pointing towards the raised end was better than the other way. I sent this to you because I'm not sure it's worth distributing. I'l let you be the judge. If dimensions are needed. I'll supply them. Bill Gradwohl IV-P builder N858B