Return-Path: Received: from panther.noc.ucla.edu ([169.232.10.21]) by ns1.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-70783U4500L450S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Wed, 31 Jan 2001 12:49:35 -0500 Received: from marvin (ts15-133.dialup.bol.ucla.edu [164.67.25.142]) by panther.noc.ucla.edu (8.9.1a/8.9.1) with SMTP id JAA25003 for ; Wed, 31 Jan 2001 09:58:06 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <000b01c08baf$57a2d240$6b07bc40@flashcom.com> From: "Marvin May" To: References: <20010131055642.AAA8389@ns1.olsusa.com> Subject: Re: lancair.list V1 #293 Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 09:57:55 -0800 X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Reply-To: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> Scotchbrite or something similar. > > On cleaning Plexi: The most important thing is to get the dust off first, > before you start rubbing. Most dust is silica, which is very hard, so no > matter what cloth or pad you use, if you start rubbing the dust around, > you'll scratch the plexi. A good pressure wash followed by a gentle > sponging would be a good start. The Novus products have worked well for me > for ordinary stuff. For nasty areas, however, like a big scuff or scratch, > wet-sand the area starting with 400 grit, then 600. Then use a soft > (unstitched) cotton buffing wheel with a buffing compound specifically made > for plastic. There's a blue compound that's good, available from the > Eastwood Company (P/N 3010, 1-800-345-1178). You need a fairly light touch, > as it's pretty easy to melt the plexi and make a mess. > > My paint troubles now appear to be solved, but not before having another > headache with PPG's Delta system. No matter what I did with it, it > fish-eyed like crazy. The tech reps blaimed contamination of my air system, > but a new filter / dryer, new hoses, and a new spray gun had no effect. I > switched to Imron, and have had no further problems. Also bought a forced > air respirator system (including a hood) from Hobbyair, which is very nice. > The $500 investment seemed a good trade-off for not getting poisoned with > isocyanates. Anyone contemplating using isocyanate-containing paints > (mainly polyurethanes) should check out the various web sites on isocyanate > toxicity (CDC and others). The paint store guys all say "Naah, no problem . > . . " --- don't believe it. The charcoal-canister masks won't cut it, > because the isocyanates are absorbed through the skin and particularly > through your eyes. > > Jim Cameron, ES builder > > ------------------------------ > zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz. > Message-ID: > > I queried Orin about this just before I bonded in the canopy plexiglass. I > realized that MC on the plexiglass would be bad but didn't know what to use. > His answer was "isopropyl alcohol". I have found that most drugstore and > grocery store rubbing alcohols are 70% isopropyl and 30% water, but the stuff > at Von's (a local grocery store) is 99% alcohol. Read the label. The water > won't hurt the plexiglass but it takes longer to dry. Concerning what rags > to use -- I think Marv covered that. I used my standard -- a cut up old > cotton t-shirt. > > - Rob Wolf > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html LML Builders' Bookstore: http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>