Message-ID: <000801c078f7$89f27f40$157f1318@schrls1.mo.home.com>
From: "Bob Jude" <bobjude@home.com>
To: "Lancair Mail List" <lancair.list@olsusa.com>
Subject: LNC2 Exhaust Kit Installation
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 16:16:52 -0600
Reply-To: lancair.list@olsusa.com
Mime-Version: 1.0

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Hi, Don Gordon.
In regards to your questions about installing the Lancair exhaust system on
your 320:  The problem of interference of the left pipe with the lower
cowling is quite common, probably typical.  I have seen this handled in
several different ways by different builders.  Some builders just cut a
clearance notch in the trailing edge of the cowling and let it go at that.
Some builders cut the notch and then build a fiberglass bubble out to the
trailing edge allowing about an inch of clearance from the pipe.  Finally,
some builders will cut the notch and rivet on a metal bubble.  I belong to
the later group.  I used stainless steel and hammered out a bubble in to a
wooden form.  If I had it to do over, I would build a fiberglass bubble and
put in an internal SS shield with fibrafax insulation between the shield and
the cowling.

The answer to your question about required clearances probably depends
somewhat on how well your paint will stand up to heat.  The clearance that I
had to the bottom of my fuselage was about the same as yours and I never had
a problem with discoloration or anything else.  I would say that you need a
minimum of 1/2 inch clearance to avoid any problems with contact result from
vibration.  I flew my 320 for about a year without heat wrap on the pipes
but now I keep heat wrap on all exhaust pipes, so I don't worry about the
cowling getting too hot.

The bolts that go into the clamps that hold on the tail pipes definitely
need castle nuts with cotter pins.  The mounting hardware should have been
with the exhaust kit you purchased.

Bob


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Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com.
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