From: RWolf99@aol.com
Message-ID: <fe.97a7d6.2787ae15@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 18:09:09 EST
Subject: Hysol
To: lancair.list@olsusa.com
Reply-To: lancair.list@olsusa.com
Mime-Version: 1.0

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In a message dated 1/5/01 2:07:50 AM EST, lancair.list@olsusa.com writes:

<< What about the hysol?  I take it that we have to
use a scale for this since it is to be mixed at
"100:44.5 A to B by weight".  Does anyone have
any suggestions on mixing this stuff?  The
thickness could be an issue when a lot needs to
be mixed in a hurry like when closing a wing. >>

I assume you've never mixed hysol before.  As you say, it would be next to 
impossible to mix by volume because the stuff is so thick, plus they haven't 
told us the mixing ratio by volume.  I don't know what the guys without 
scales do.  

Concerning the need to mix it in a hurry, you needn't worry.  Hysol has a 
very long pot life compared to the other epoxies we use.  Like well over an 
hour.  While I don't advocate mixing a batch and taking a lunch break, you 
shouldn't have any problems mixing it, smearing it, and closing out your wing 
in the time allotted.  I haven't closed anything this big yet, but I was 
never pressed for time on the stub wing bond or on the canopy plexiglass 
bond.  Obviously one should practice dry fitting the parts first.  (It also 
gets your helpers educated as to what to do.)

How about this?  Take a small amount of hysol (an ounce of Part A) and mix it 
with Part B in a tiny mixing cup (a 3 oz cup).  Come back every 20 minutes to 
check on its spreadability.  You'll be pleased at how much time you have to 
work with it.

Don't plan on touching anything you hysol for a couple of days, unless you 
elevate the temperature considerably (full cure takes 1 hour at 180 F and 1 
week at 77 F, if I recall correctly).  It will still be soft enough to dig a 
fingernail in the next day, except maybe in the Phoenix summertime.  But 
don't despair, it will eventually cure.

- Rob Wolf
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