|
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
<< Lancair Builders' Mail List >>
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>
In a message dated 11/9/0 11:02:24 PM, you wrote:
<<I'm finding it very difficult to master hand peening the
rivets the way that the manual suggests. >>
So did I. I ended up using my rivet squeezer, which worked just fine. I
know the manual says not to, but I figure if both ends look good, and they're
too fat to fall out of the hole, why not? The thing you're trying to avoid
is bending the rivet inside the tube, resulting in not enough material on the
outside to make the shop head. But if you get a good shop head, who cares
how it got that way? The squeezer worked for me.
By the way, it is very important to have the rivet be the proper length. Too
long and it bends over instead of squashing. Much more important than a
normally bucked or squeezed rivet, where a protruding length of 2 diameters
is okay. So get a rivet cutter and make sure the protruding end is not more
than 1.5 diameters long.
And by the way, if it doesn't look good when you're done, do it over. I had
to throw away at least one threaded rod end before I got it right.
- Rob Wolf
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html
LML Builders' Bookstore: http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair
Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
|
|