Return-Path: Received: from imo-r20.mail.aol.com ([152.163.225.162]) by ns1.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-64832U3500L350S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Fri, 10 Nov 2000 02:23:07 -0500 Received: from RWolf99@aol.com by imo-r20.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v28.32.) id k.c4.b7bb5cb (3888) for ; Fri, 10 Nov 2000 02:30:37 -0500 (EST) From: RWolf99@aol.com Message-ID: Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 02:30:37 EST Subject: Re: Pushrod Riveting To: lancair.list@olsusa.com X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Reply-To: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> In a message dated 11/9/0 11:02:24 PM, you wrote: <> So did I. I ended up using my rivet squeezer, which worked just fine. I know the manual says not to, but I figure if both ends look good, and they're too fat to fall out of the hole, why not? The thing you're trying to avoid is bending the rivet inside the tube, resulting in not enough material on the outside to make the shop head. But if you get a good shop head, who cares how it got that way? The squeezer worked for me. By the way, it is very important to have the rivet be the proper length. Too long and it bends over instead of squashing. Much more important than a normally bucked or squeezed rivet, where a protruding length of 2 diameters is okay. So get a rivet cutter and make sure the protruding end is not more than 1.5 diameters long. And by the way, if it doesn't look good when you're done, do it over. I had to throw away at least one threaded rod end before I got it right. - Rob Wolf >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html LML Builders' Bookstore: http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>