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"Which one is the correct one to get?"
The best answer is: That it kind of depends.....
I first bought the 1" servo, but it turned out that
the trim tab hinge reinforcement, for unknown reasons, was on the lower
skin.
Called Lancair, they said it didn´t matter, I could
just suit myself.....
Options were:
1. Flip stabilizer and have trim tab on starboard
side
2. Grind hinge reinforcement away on stab
side, to make room for curved lip and make new hinge reinforcement on opposite
side
3. Leave hinge on lower skin and look at ugly
control horn on upper skin for 30 years or more
4. Leave hinge on lower skin, install control horn
on bottom tab skin, glue servo mount plate (1/8" phenolic with studs) to upper
skin and install access panel in lower skin.
I opted for solution # 4, all together leaving
the upper skin free of hardware. I took great care in shaping the curved lip, so
there is a nice, uniform 1/16" gap through the whole range of movement. It looks
great.
I had to fabricate a slightly shorter control horn
for some reason, that I no longer remember. I think the control rod angles might
have determined the length of the control horn. The 1" stroke came out
too long, so I had to buy a .7" servo, which fits perfectly.
If I were to do it over, I would make a servo model
out of white foam. Glue a square block onto a piece of 1/8"
phenolic and there you have it. Fabricate the arm out of aluminum or
1/8" phenolic. There is a 50% chance that your servo model will save
you $ 145......
Not really the answer you wanted, right? Talk about
tough love....
Anyway; here´s a motivation photo:
I started my engine for the first time yesterday. Apart from the prop not
cycling (probably wrong type governor), everything worked without a hitch. No
leaks, pressures are good, temps are good, noise level is perfect!
A friend of mine shot a little video:
Don´t forget HD res and turn up the volume. Now you
are ready to go back to work, right?
Best regards
Tim Jorgensen
360MKIIFBOB / 99.9%
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