The reason I was considering the fork is because the holes have been drilled out so many times before and I had to use a screw extractor to remove the helicoils which somewhat further enlarged the holes.
Sent from my iPhone
George,
I don’t know anything about the gear/gear fairings on the ES, but in general, it’s much preferred to patch/rework the fiberglass rather than the metal strut components. These are high-stress items, and drilling extra/oversize holes in them can weaken them.
Whether this is critical or not would depend on the locations and sizes of the holes of course, but as an alternative to re-drilling the struts, consider cleaning the fiberglass fairings well in the area of the defective holes, and lay on a couple of bids
on the outside, then fill the original holes with dry epoxy/flox mixture, sand the area flat from the inside when hard, and lay on as many bids as you need to strengthen the fairings and to get the fork to fit snugly inside. Then
use the original holes in the fork to mark the location of new holes in the fairing(s).
You might also want to consider taping the contact area of the fork with clear packing tape, then inserting the fork
in the fairing after laying on the interior bids. This will cause the inside of the fairing to conform exactly to the fork as the bids set up and will provide a very precise interface when you add the bolts later. The only issue with this process is that you
must precisely establish the relative position of fairing and strut before the epoxy hardens.
In any case, consider re-working the fairings rather than the struts…these are much less critical components, and probably
(?) cheaper/easier to replace if you really mess them up….
Bob
good idea Mark, thanks.
I got the nose wheel, fork, fairing and what not disconnected from the airplane last night. So she is sitting propped up for now.
What I noticed inside the fairing was that the BID buildup is present on both sides of the inside of the fairing to take up the distance between the fairing and the outside of the
fork. Odly enough, the holes on both sides of the fairing are not equal. One is more forward on one side than the other. Also, the holes do not align properly with the drilled holes into the fork. I bolted the fairing mounting plate to the fork and then
attached the fairing to the fairing mounting plate on the work bench. Then I checked the side mounting holes of the fairing in relation to the holes drilled into the fork. They are off center. And because of how many times in the past it has been attempted
to repair I am having difficulty in deciding how best to repair it. I can see why the fairing has developed cracks in the top of it because the side bolts being forced into the fork have put strain on the top of the fairing and thus cracking.
I believe that I can still use the existing holes in the fairing but re-drill into the fork using the existing holes in the fairing as a template but then create new holes into the
fork. However, there is a chance of overlapping into the existing holes in the fork. If I did this I could then put much larger nut plates on the fork. There might be a possibility of making a larger hole, rethreading the new hole and using an AN series
bolt such as a 3/16”. The bolt would be much stronger than 10x32 screw and mimic the bolted look of the main gear fairings. This would give me the option of using either a nut plate or possibly re-tapping the fork to accept the bolt threading.
I am just trying to save the fork and hoping to not have to remake up the fairing spacers.
Any thoughts appreciated.
If there's a sporting goods store where you live, they ought to be able to sell you some lead shot. Otherwise, you could order some over the internet.
On Jan 4, 2014, at 12:59 PM, George Wehrung <gw5@me.com> wrote:
I guess I could empty out a few shotgun shells…
I used lead shot in resin, covered with 2-bid.
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 3, 2014, at 10:12 AM, George Wehrung <gw5@me.com> wrote:
Yeah that's a good point now that I have the wheel pants off. What did you use to Balster will pan with? Did you use lead weights?
Sent from my iPhone
I haven't experienced a shimmy incident ever since I balanced my front wheel pant. If you haven't done that, I would highly recommend doing that, even if you do shim the gear legs.
Right under the main spar!
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 1, 2014, at 8:23 AM, George Wehrung <gw5@me.com> wrote:
All,
Got a pretty shimmy tonight, enough to loosen the front wheel fairings screws. Also while pushing her back into the hangar I could hear a rubbing sound on the left main wheel, but
only pulling forward; not backing. So now its time to jack up the main gear and see whats going on.
I tried to search the archives to see how best to support the wings. No luck.
I am going to purchase a floor jack and lift the main gear one at a time using the Lancair adapter. Then put a saw horse with carpet and foam to hold the wing while I check the main
gear for play in the legs. I suspect I may need shims or be having wheel bearing problems.
I remember reading but I don’t recall where to put the support under the wing. Unfortunately, I don’t have jackpoints.
Posted for Clark Baker <bakercdb@gmail.com>:
> Hi Colyn,
> I played around with the power supplies and just ended up using a resistor.
> Low tech and I'm the last person to give advice in this area, but it was a
> fun project, it works well, and I learned something. Sounds like
> homebuilding!
>
> Notice my engineering design process for the heat sinking. I started it,
> but quickly got way over my head. So, just ended up doing actual testing
> of the thermal properties. 0.35 amps and 0.70 amps (apprx) for the green
> and red, respectively and SUPER bright (did the runway test against a
> Whelen certified setup and various long distances and perceived brightness)
>
>FWIW (not much)
>
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 26, 2013 at 3:38 PM, Colyn Case <colyncase@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>> I'm interested in what you used for filters too Pete.
>> ...for my home made de-ice lights with super noisy power supplies.
>>
>> On Nov 26, 2013, at 9:06 AM, Gordon Porter wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the clue, Pete! Yes, all in one box, but I will re-visit the
>> wiring instructions for the LED lights to make sure what I did was kosher.
>>
>> What filters did you use?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Gordon
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: pete@leapfrogventures.com [mailto:pete@leapfrogventures.com]
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2013 12:13 AM
>> To: Gordon Porter; lml@lancaironline.net;
randylsnarr@yahoo.com
>> Subject: RE: [LML] Re: Landing light recommendation
>>
>> I had similar issues with LED position lights that I had built myself.
>> Noise only on the lower frequencies. It turned out the problem was on the
>> lines between the LED power supply and the LEDs. Because of this adding
>> filters to the power supply lines to the lights did nothing. I ended up
>> adding noise filters on the lines going to the LEDs and the problem went
>> away. This was easy because mine was a home-made setup. I'm guessing your
>> power supply and LEDs are all contained in one sealed package.
>>
>> Pete
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Gordon Porter [mailto:ghp@trustedwealthadvisors.com]
>> Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 10:20 AM
>> To: lml@lancaironline.net
>> Subject: RE: [LML] Re: Landing light recommendation
>>
>> Hi Randy.
>>
>> I have been tracking down a similar issue. Thought I had it isolated to
>> one
>> or both of my AFS EFIS'. Installed a pair of capacitance filters at the
>> advice of Aerotronics... jury still out.
>>
>> My reception issue was "like breaking squelch" but only happened on the low
>> end freqs - 118-121 or so, on both radios, each on separate antennae. Very
>> consistent and repeatable.
>>
>> I have Aeroleds for landing and both wing tip recognition lights...not the
>> strobes, just wing tip recognition lights. Aerosun, I think the model is.
>>
>> What freqs are you having issues on??
>>
>> Very frustrating.
>>
>> Gordon
>>
>> ES N144GP
>>
>>
>> Gordon H. Porter
>> Managing Partner
>> Trusted Wealth Advisors, LLP
>> Registered Principal, Cambridge Investment Research, Inc.
>>
>> 800-290-2632 717-757-4908 fax 717-843-0180
>>
>> GHP@TrustedWealthAdvisors.com
>>
>> Securities offered through Cambridge Investment Research, Inc.. Member
>> FINRA/SIPC. Advisory Services offered through Cambridge Investment Research
>> Advisors, Inc., a Registered Investment Advisor. Tax services are offered
>> by
>> Trusted Wealth Advisors LLP. Trusted Wealth Advisors and the Cambridge
>> Investment Research companies are unaffiliated entities.
>> Trading instructions sent via e-mail may not be honored. Please call our
>> office, or Cambridge Investment Research trading desk at 800-756-8115 ,
>> for
>> all buy/sell orders. Please be advised that communications regarding
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>> in your account are for informational purposes only. You should continue
>> to
>> rely on confirmations and statements received from the
>> custodian(s) of your assets. The text of this communication is
>> confidential, and use by any person who is not the intended recipient is
>> prohibited. Any person who receives this communication in error is
>> requested to immediately destroy the text of this communication without
>> copying or further dissemination. Your cooperation is appreciated.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: randylsnarr@yahoo.com [mailto:randylsnarr@yahoo.com]
>> Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 8:05 AM
>> To: lml@lancaironline.net
>> Subject: Re: [LML] Re: Landing light recommendation
>>
>> Joe , do you get any interference in your radios with these lights?
>> I installed similar lights a year ago and it causes reception issues at
>> times on some frequencies. Curios if you experienced the same issue...
>> I would also be interested if anyone else has any suggestions on how to
>> resolve this..
>> Thx!
>> Randy Snarr
>> 235/320
>> N694RS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
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>
>
>
> --
> Clark Baker
>
> mobile: +44 7557 804 630
>
> bakercdb@gmail.com
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