X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Sender: To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 08:08:48 -0500 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com ([75.180.132.120] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.4.4) with ESMTP id 5398439 for lml@lancaironline.net; Wed, 15 Feb 2012 10:28:44 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=75.180.132.120; envelope-from=tednoel@cfl.rr.com X-Original-Return-Path: X-Authority-Analysis: v=2.0 cv=UfLTuduN c=1 sm=0 a=Juz4b5MAAxrvp7e3l7SsjA==:17 a=SHQDgO6TkQYA:10 a=jk2uSD4c1AIA:10 a=o1OHuDzbAAAA:8 a=Ia-xEzejAAAA:8 a=oCcaPWc0AAAA:8 a=iBx5okkYXWdPySBv47wA:9 a=hItLajpQyfjzrglg82UA:7 a=wPNLvfGTeEIA:10 a=ILCZio5HsAgA:10 a=EzXvWhQp4_cA:10 a=4PR2P7QzAAAA:8 a=ayC55rCoAAAA:8 a=huBPSfnAxyACR1l2z_gA:9 a=aptp8FcmQ1jLybEYzsYA:7 a=_W_S_7VecoQA:10 a=djSSOgbfo6cA:10 a=x0mLEhdcI6ghJkqIEpcA:9 a=HXjIzolwW10A:10 a=dvIeMUh3dxkolpdY:18 a=Juz4b5MAAxrvp7e3l7SsjA==:117 X-Cloudmark-Score: 0 X-Originating-IP: 97.101.122.192 Received: from [97.101.122.192] ([97.101.122.192:49473] helo=[192.168.1.2]) by cdptpa-oedge02.mail.rr.com (envelope-from ) (ecelerity 2.2.3.46 r()) with ESMTP id 55/0B-03352-8FECB3F4; Wed, 15 Feb 2012 15:28:08 +0000 X-Original-Message-ID: <4F3BCEFA.3090405@cfl.rr.com> X-Original-Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 10:27:54 -0500 From: Ted Noel Reply-To: tednoel@cfl.rr.com User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:9.0) Gecko/20111222 Thunderbird/9.0.1 MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Original-To: Lancair Mailing List Subject: Re: [LML] Fw: Re: Canopy Crud References: In-Reply-To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------050806060702050306020103" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------050806060702050306020103 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Let's add to this the issue of protecting the plexiglass against whatever we use, even if it's labeled "safe." As a modeler, I used a product called "liquid masking film." You put it where you didn't want the paint to go. After painting, you just peeled it off. I googled the term, and found several similar products. You may wish to try that approach just in case... Ted Noel On 2/15/2012 8:24 AM, Frederick Moreno wrote: > I just had this problem with a 1963 Corvette restoration project in my > shop. Sat for too long. Finishing up now and tape crud is a problem. > I tried all the various brews previously suggested. I recalled that > there is a 3 M tape crud removal product, but could not find it. So > I experimented and found that a product called "Goo Gone" with some > orange smelling oils in it did the job if one was patient. Apply, > spread over area, let sit for a few minutes (maybe more than that for > stubborn areas), then use small cloth pad (old T shirt strips work > well) soaked in the stuff and rub the crud off. > Worked fine on door weather stripping with no damage, and the shop was > aromatic for a couple days heavy with the smell of citrus. Caution: > I did to test against Plexiglas, but only against rubber and Corvette > fiberglass. > Windshields windows are Plexiglas which is a trade name for acrylic, a > generic name for a particular brew of plastic. See Google for more. > F > /-------Original Message-------/ > /*From:*/ Greenbacks, UnLtd. > /*Date:*/ 14/02/2012 8:51:26 PM > /*To:*/ lml@lancaironline.net > /*Subject:*/ Re: Canopy Crud > Going back through the archives I found several entries relating to > how best to remove tape adhesive residue along the paint line of the > canopy frame. In this instance, the adhesive residue is from 3M Scotch > Blue painter tape. If you look on the inside of the tape roll, it > actually says in very fine print to remove the tape within 14 days. Of > course, no-one in their right mind bothers to read the fine print so > my tape stayed in place for about 2 years while I went about other > construction activities. So fast forward to this week and I have some > dry and crusty adhesive residue to deal with. > Hot soapy water and isopropyl alcohol had no effect. Acetone and > Windex as well a lot of other stuff will damage the plexiglass > surface....which brings me to the question...what is the material used > for our canopy glass and windows? Is it plexiglass, Lexan, > polycarbonate, etc.? Do these words all describe the same material > that came with our kits way back when? Does anybody know with > certainty what works and what doesn't? > Some suggest using kerosene, WD40, lighter fluid, who knows for sure? > Amonia and water? Citrus based cleaners? > Any help would be appreciated. > Angier Ames > N4ZQ > > > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2112/4811 - Release Date: 02/15/12 > --------------050806060702050306020103 Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="------------070706050602050902050901" --------------070706050602050902050901 Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Let's add to this the issue of protecting the plexiglass against whatever we use, even if it's labeled "safe." As a modeler, I used a product called "liquid masking film." You put it where you didn't want the paint to go. After painting, you just peeled it off.

I googled the term, and found several similar products. You may wish to try that approach just in case...


Ted Noel

On 2/15/2012 8:24 AM, Frederick Moreno wrote:
I just had this problem with a 1963 Corvette restoration project in my shop.  Sat for too long.  Finishing up now and tape crud is a problem. 
 
I tried all the various brews previously suggested.  I recalled that there is a 3 M tape crud removal product, but could not find it.  So I  experimented and found that a product called "Goo  Gone" with some orange smelling oils in it did the job if one was patient.  Apply, spread over area, let sit for a few minutes (maybe more than that for stubborn areas), then use small cloth pad (old T shirt strips work well) soaked in the stuff and rub the crud off. 
 
Worked fine on door weather stripping with no damage, and the shop was aromatic for a couple days heavy with the smell of citrus.   Caution: I did to test against Plexiglas, but  only against rubber and Corvette fiberglass.
 
Windshields windows are Plexiglas which is a trade name for acrylic, a generic name for a particular brew of plastic.   See Google for more.
 
F
 
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
Date: 14/02/2012 8:51:26 PM
Subject: Re: Canopy Crud
 
Going back through the archives I found several entries relating to how best to remove tape adhesive residue along the paint line of the canopy frame. In this instance, the adhesive residue is from 3M Scotch Blue painter tape. If you look on the inside of the tape roll, it actually says in very fine print to remove the tape within 14 days. Of course, no-one in their right mind bothers to read the fine print so my tape stayed in place for about 2 years while I went about other construction activities. So fast forward to this week and I have some dry and crusty adhesive residue to deal with.
 
Hot soapy water and isopropyl alcohol had no effect. Acetone and Windex as well a lot of other stuff will damage the plexiglass surface....which brings me to the question...what is the material used for our canopy glass and windows? Is it plexiglass, Lexan, polycarbonate, etc.? Do these words all describe the same material that came with our kits way back when? Does anybody know with certainty what works and what doesn't?
 
Some suggest using kerosene, WD40, lighter fluid, who knows for sure? Amonia and water? Citrus based cleaners?
 
Any help would be appreciated.
 
Angier Ames
N4ZQ


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2112/4811 - Release Date: 02/15/12

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