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Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2011 11:13:02 -0500
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Subject: Re: Mistake Fixing Advice -- control sticks
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Rob -

I remember doing the same thing in 1994.  I drilled the holes EXACTLY wher=
e the manual told me to, and then discovered that the crossover weldment=
 jammed up on the phenolic tabs when I moved the stick forward.  (These ar=
e the tabs affixed to the aft face of the spar.)  All you need to do is sa=
nd away the phenolic that's in the way and life is good.  You should be ab=
le to contact the aft edge of the spar cap, although the control stop at=
 the horizontal tail will keep this from happening.

If I accurately understand what you're saying, and you do what I did to fi=
x it, then...

1)  You have not compromised the structural integrity of the attachment of=
 the control stick to the spar.

2)  You can get full range of motion of the aileron tube through the cockp=
it closeout rib by relieving the hole as required.  In fact, I recall atta=
ching the aileron tube between the stick and the idler in the gear well an=
d gradually enlarging the hole in the closeout rib until full range of mot=
ion was attained.  In this scenario you have the same sized hole as intend=
ed, simply displaced about 1/16 inch (since it's halfway between the stick=
 and the idler).

3)  You should have no problems with binding between the rod end bearing=
 and the idler.  But if you do, add another washer between the bearing and=
 the idler and use the next longer bolt. =20

4)  You have not changed any of the moment arms and therefore the handling=
 qualities will not have changed.

5)  You won't notice that the stick is 1/8 inch lower.

Using a bolt through a phenolic block as a hinge pin is bogus anyway, in=
 my humble opinion.  My plan is to use it until it gets sloppy, and if it=
 ever does, I'll drill it out to maybe 1/2 inch and press a bushing in the=
re.  It would be even better to press in a rolling element bearing (ball=
 bearing or needle bearing).  But I figure that if it's good enough for al=
l those other Lancairs out there it's probably good enough for me...

Good luck.  Feel free to contact me off list if you have any other questio=
ns.

- Rob Wolf

p.s.  Check the retracted landing gear clearance to the closeout rib befor=
e you micro it in place.  You will find many Lancairs that have a small gl=
ass-to-glass patch in the whel well side of the cockpit closeout rib to ke=
ep the tire from rubbing.  Mine included.  I will note that I attached a=
 spacer to the tire when I glued the rib in place specifically to prevent=
 this from happening, but it still did.


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<font color=3D'black' size=3D'2' face=3D'arial'>
<div>Rob -</div>


<div>&nbsp;</div>


<div>I remember doing the same thing in 1994.&nbsp; I drilled the holes EX=
ACTLY where the manual told me to, and then discovered that the crossover=
 weldment jammed up on the phenolic tabs when I moved the stick forward.&n=
bsp; (These are the tabs affixed to the aft face of the spar.)&nbsp; All=
 you need to do is sand away the phenolic that's in the way and life is go=
od.&nbsp; You should be able to contact the aft edge of the spar cap, alth=
ough the control stop at the horizontal tail will keep this from happening=
.</div>


<div>&nbsp;</div>


<div>If I accurately understand what you're saying, and you do what I did=
 to fix it, then...</div>


<div>&nbsp;</div>


<div>1)&nbsp; You have not compromised the structural integrity of the att=
achment of the control stick to the spar.</div>


<div>&nbsp;</div>


<div>2)&nbsp; You can get full range of motion of the aileron tube through=
 the cockpit closeout rib by relieving the hole as required.&nbsp; In fact=
, I recall attaching the aileron tube between the stick and the idler in=
 the gear well and gradually enlarging the hole in the closeout rib until=
 full range of motion was attained.&nbsp; In this scenario you have the sa=
me sized hole as intended, simply displaced about 1/16 inch (since it's ha=
lfway between the stick and the idler).</div>


<div>&nbsp;</div>


<div>3)&nbsp; You should have no problems with binding between the rod end=
 bearing and the idler.&nbsp; But if you do, add another washer between th=
e bearing and the idler and use the next longer bolt.&nbsp; </div>


<div>&nbsp;</div>


<div>4)&nbsp; You have not changed any of the moment arms and therefore th=
e handling qualities will not have changed.</div>


<div>&nbsp;</div>


<div>5)&nbsp; You won't notice that the stick is 1/8 inch lower.</div>


<div>&nbsp;</div>


<div>Using a bolt through a phenolic block as a hinge pin is bogus anyway,=
 in my humble opinion.&nbsp; My plan is to use it until it gets sloppy, an=
d if it ever does, I'll drill it out to maybe 1/2 inch and press a bushing=
 in there.&nbsp; It would be even better to press in a rolling element bea=
ring (ball bearing or needle bearing).&nbsp; But I figure that if it's goo=
d enough for all those other Lancairs out there it's probably good enough=
 for me...</div>


<div>&nbsp;</div>


<div>Good luck.&nbsp; Feel free to contact me off list if you have any oth=
er questions.</div>


<div>&nbsp;</div>


<div>- Rob Wolf</div>


<div>&nbsp;</div>


<div>p.s.&nbsp; Check the retracted&nbsp;landing gear clearance to the clo=
seout rib before you micro it in place.&nbsp; You will find many Lancairs=
 that have a small glass-to-glass patch in the whel well side of the cockp=
it closeout rib to keep the tire from rubbing.&nbsp; Mine included.&nbsp;=
 I will note that I attached a spacer to the tire when I glued&nbsp;the ri=
b in place&nbsp;specifically to prevent this from happening, but it still=
 did.<br>
<br>
</div>


<div style=3D"CLEAR: both"></div>
</font>

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