Rob,

>> 1) I could sand the phenolic blocks down a bit until the stick attachment
fits. This would put my stick about 1/8" lower and about 1/8" more foreword
than standard--Not sure if this would affect the connection to ?>> the
aileron idler arm. (I imagine it would)

I had similar problems.  I had to make a pretty significant relief on the
outside radius of the phenolic block mount points to get proper stick
movement fore and aft.  Unless someone else has gotten the fast-build
installation of the phenolic blocks to work, I think the factory template is
incorrect and will not fit the stick geometry movement.  I would keep the
existing phenolic blocks.  If your off by 1/8" I can't imagine that would
have that much effect on the layout.  However, the biggest issue I had was
making absolutely sure the aileron pushrod in the aluminum tube running
through the wing tank is positioned precisely so there is no binding.  My
installation did not allow for much variance and I had to spend a lot of
time playing with rigging to make sure the pushrod did not contact the
aluminum tube.

>> Also, as a weird aside, I see they mention using AN4-21 bolts to connect
the actual stick to the control stick bracket, but the parts list for my kit
shows only 1 AN4-21 bolt included in the hardware kit.  The AN4-21 >> looks
like the right size, too, but why was only one included? Did I misread the
drawing and it should be a different bolt?

During the lifecycle of building, I found myself purchasing quite a bit of
new hardware for nuts/bolts/washers (and especially AN fittings) that were
either the wrong size or missing.  There might be enough variability in the
building process that factory hardware will not always suffice for your
environment.  Overall, the hardware is cheap and just bite the bullet and
buy with what you need (plus spare hardware, you will need them).  Remember
to following accepted aircraft standards for washers, bolt head vs. nut
position, and number of threads showing after you tighten the nut with
washer.  Often, you won't have enough threads sticking out and you will need
a longer bolt.  Bolts that protrude too far out from the nut should also
raise concern especially in the nose gear and main gear wheel wells were
they could interfere with moving parts.

As I often tell other builders, the LNC2 kit is like a sculpture rather than
an erector set assembly.  You can't just snap them together and be done with
it. You have to massage and persuade the parts to fit together like an
artist molding a clay model.  Lots of rework is always involved
unfortunately.  On top of that, plan for disappointing mistakes caused by
self-inflicted brain to hand interface problems.  That's why they say when
you build an amateur built aircraft, your building one and a half aircraft
when accounting for all the mistakes you have to repair.  Argggh!


Don
LNC2 - 1600 hours