X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Sender: To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2011 14:21:53 -0500 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com ([75.180.132.121] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.4c2a) with ESMTP id 4832460 for lml@lancaironline.net; Mon, 31 Jan 2011 08:47:58 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=75.180.132.121; envelope-from=super_chipmunk@roadrunner.com X-Original-Return-Path: X-Authority-Analysis: v=1.1 cv=Inhw+Jdt7z1D3BivGPfn2aw54OvUEJw5lAn/booRZkE= c=1 sm=0 a=kHHFPKlR9vcA:10 a=35Tvjzvas7lBNn8+H1IYgA==:17 a=3oc9M9_CAAAA:8 a=Ia-xEzejAAAA:8 a=mKABuvk69N6aUI325OUA:9 a=lBRUDrg72L107ZC05-4A:7 a=0mNYVBdRqKnUKRvGQRh0raOLUsAA:4 a=wPNLvfGTeEIA:10 a=U8Ie8EnqySEA:10 a=EzXvWhQp4_cA:10 a=SSmOFEACAAAA:8 a=XDz6w94FtXHxFoK5bvsA:9 a=jYNlxUagZRsFvCnYelkA:7 a=lZL--2z4X6N2DK_qSVYt57RZhtEA:4 a=35Tvjzvas7lBNn8+H1IYgA==:117 X-Cloudmark-Score: 0 X-Originating-IP: 69.205.15.200 Received: from [69.205.15.200] ([69.205.15.200:52815] helo=Laptop) by cdptpa-oedge04.mail.rr.com (envelope-from ) (ecelerity 2.2.3.46 r()) with ESMTP id 36/BE-13137-96DB64D4; Mon, 31 Jan 2011 13:47:22 +0000 X-Original-Message-ID: <16DB3B69E13A412DBFA2304E18B7C809@Laptop> From: "Bill Wade" X-Original-To: "Lancair Mailing List" References: In-Reply-To: Subject: Re: [LML] Re: Oil Door Latches and Rivets X-Original-Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2011 08:47:25 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_07C4_01CBC123.7B93EFE0" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Windows Mail 6.0.6002.18197 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.0.6002.18263 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_07C4_01CBC123.7B93EFE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I've riveted to fiberglass before. I tried both but I found soft = rivets do a better job. The rivet body swells in the hole before the = shop head is formed- not a problem with aluminum or steel, in fact it's = what you want for a tight connection. I think a hard rivet pushes too = much on the surrounding fiberglass and can fracture it. Fiberglass is = relatively weak in compression- experiment with some scrap pieces. Would it work to embed flat-head screws? I'd suggest stainless screws, = notched so they wouldn't rotate and set in flox or microglass. Cover the = heads with a layer of fiberglass as previously suggested and the result = would be studs on the inside. Then if you needed to replace the latch, = just remove some nuts. Again, try it on some scrap and see what you = think. -Bill Wade -------------------------------------------------------------------------= ----- From: rwolf99@aol.com [mailto:rwolf99@aol.com]=20 Sent: Saturday, January 29, 2011 11:37 PM To: lml@lancaironline.net Subject: Oil Door Latches and Rivets =20 I'm using a standard Hartwell latch for my oil door -- just like a = Wichita spam can. My question is whether to attach it to the door with = rivets or screws. If I use screws, I can replace it easily and it's = easier to paint. If I use rivets (which would have to be 5/32 rivets = due to the hole size in the latch) then it's harder to replace, but you = can't see the fasteners. =20 My wife says to use rivets, since I told her that I'd probably never = have to replace the latch, but if so, I could drill out the rivets and = then use "those shiny stainless screws". =20 For those of you using these latches -- what have y'all done? =20 FYI, I'm using a gooseneck hinge from an RV (Vans), so the actual = hinge is not visible. Just the latch is visible. I'm not interested in = using one of those elegant hidden actuators that some of you have, = although they definitely look nice. =20 Next question -- since I'm not a sheet metal guy and know nothing = about rivets, would I use soft rivets to attach the latch and also the = hinge, or would I have to use hard rivets. Normally I'm using the soft = rivets for nutplates. =20 Thanks, guys! =20 - Rob Wolf ------=_NextPart_000_07C4_01CBC123.7B93EFE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
  I've riveted to fiberglass = before. I tried=20 both but I found soft rivets do a better job. The rivet body swells = in the=20 hole before the shop head is formed- not a problem with aluminum or = steel, in=20 fact it's what you want for a tight connection. I think a hard rivet = pushes too=20 much on the surrounding fiberglass and can fracture it. Fiberglass = is=20 relatively weak in compression- experiment with some scrap=20 pieces.
 
  Would it work to embed flat-head = screws?=20 I'd suggest stainless screws, notched so they wouldn't rotate and = set in=20 flox or microglass. Cover the heads with a layer of fiberglass as = previously=20 suggested and the result would be studs on the inside. Then if you = needed=20 to replace the latch, just remove some nuts. Again, try it on some scrap = and see=20 what you think.   -Bill=20 Wade
 

From:=20 rwolf99@aol.com [mailto:rwolf99@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 29, = 2011 11:37=20 PM
To:=20 lml@lancaironline.net
Subject: Oil Door Latches and=20 Rivets

 

I'm using = a standard=20 Hartwell latch for my oil door -- just like a Wichita spam can.  My question = is=20 whether to attach it to the door with rivets or screws.  If I use = screws,=20 I can replace it easily and it's easier to paint.  If I use = rivets (which=20 would have to be 5/32 rivets due to the hole size in the latch) then = it's=20 harder to replace, but you can't see the=20 fasteners.

 

My wife = says to use=20 rivets, since I told her that I'd probably never have to replace the = latch,=20 but if so, I could drill out the rivets and then use "those shiny = stainless=20 screws".

 

For those = of you=20 using these latches -- what have y'all=20 done?

 

FYI, I'm = using a=20 gooseneck hinge from an RV (Vans), so the actual hinge is not = visible. =20 Just the latch is visible.  I'm not interested in using one of = those=20 elegant hidden actuators that some of you have, although they = definitely look=20 nice.

 

Next = question --=20 since I'm not a sheet metal guy and know nothing about rivets, would I = use=20 soft rivets to attach the latch and also the hinge, or would I have to = use=20 hard rivets.  Normally I'm using the soft rivets for=20 nutplates.

 

Thanks,=20 guys!

 

-=20 Rob = Wolf

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