Mailing List lml@lancaironline.net Message #57352
From: Rod Pharis <rpharis@verizon.net>
Sender: <marv@lancaironline.net>
Subject: RE: [LML] Oil Door Latches and Rivets
Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2011 08:17:01 -0500
To: <lml@lancaironline.net>

Rig a latch released by a cable through the nose gear doors or a  cable from under the instrument panel.  What price cool?

 

From: Lancair Mailing List [mailto:lml@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of rwolf99@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, January 29, 2011 8:37 PM
To: lml@lancaironline.net
Subject: [LML] Oil Door Latches and Rivets

 

I'm using a standard Hartwell latch for my oil door -- just like a Wichita spam can.  My question is whether to attach it to the door with rivets or screws.  If I use screws, I can replace it easily and it's easier to paint.  If I use rivets (which would have to be 5/32 rivets due to the hole size in the latch) then it's harder to replace, but you can't see the fasteners.

 

My wife says to use rivets, since I told her that I'd probably never have to replace the latch, but if so, I could drill out the rivets and then use "those shiny stainless screws".

 

For those of you using these latches -- what have y'all done?

 

FYI, I'm using a gooseneck hinge from an RV (Vans), so the actual hinge is not visible.  Just the latch is visible.  I'm not interested in using one of those elegant hidden actuators that some of you have, although they definitely look nice.

 

Next question -- since I'm not a sheet metal guy and know nothing about rivets, would I use soft rivets to attach the latch and also the hinge, or would I have to use hard rivets.  Normally I'm using the soft rivets for nutplates.

 

Thanks, guys!

 

- Rob Wolf

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