X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Sender: To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2011 08:17:01 -0500 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net ([167.206.4.196] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.4c2a) with ESMTP id 4831755 for lml@lancaironline.net; Sun, 30 Jan 2011 17:17:55 -0500 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=167.206.4.196; envelope-from=Adam@ValidationPartners.com Received: from VpiWorkstation1 (ool-45704951.dyn.optonline.net [69.112.73.81]) by mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net (Sun Java System Messaging Server 6.2-8.04 (built Feb 28 2007)) with ESMTP id <0LFU00DKFWKW5OA0@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> for lml@lancaironline.net; Sun, 30 Jan 2011 17:17:20 -0500 (EST) X-Original-Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2011 17:18:06 -0500 From: Adam Molny Subject: RE: Oil Door Latches and Rivets In-reply-to: X-Original-To: rwolf99@aol.com, lml@lancaironline.net X-Original-Message-id: MIME-version: 1.0 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.5994 X-Mailer: Microsoft Office Outlook 11 Content-type: multipart/alternative; boundary="Boundary_(ID_3GXc/rVdmx1uKa6oxtPtRg)" Thread-index: AcvAftL0lsS1ZvupS5i5Y94UTDPBdAAS0B1g References: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_3GXc/rVdmx1uKa6oxtPtRg) Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Rob - I'm at the same point myself. I vote for using hard rivets to install the Hartwell latch. They're no more effort to install (or drill out should the need arise). Have you checked whether you have sufficient clearance for the RV goosneck hinge under the cowl? I fabricated my own J-hinge and it hits the #2 intake runner. I'll have to scrap it and try something else. -Adam Molny _____ From: rwolf99@aol.com [mailto:rwolf99@aol.com] Sent: Saturday, January 29, 2011 11:37 PM To: lml@lancaironline.net Subject: Oil Door Latches and Rivets I'm using a standard Hartwell latch for my oil door -- just like a Wichita spam can. My question is whether to attach it to the door with rivets or screws. If I use screws, I can replace it easily and it's easier to paint. If I use rivets (which would have to be 5/32 rivets due to the hole size in the latch) then it's harder to replace, but you can't see the fasteners. My wife says to use rivets, since I told her that I'd probably never have to replace the latch, but if so, I could drill out the rivets and then use "those shiny stainless screws". For those of you using these latches -- what have y'all done? FYI, I'm using a gooseneck hinge from an RV (Vans), so the actual hinge is not visible. Just the latch is visible. I'm not interested in using one of those elegant hidden actuators that some of you have, although they definitely look nice. Next question -- since I'm not a sheet metal guy and know nothing about rivets, would I use soft rivets to attach the latch and also the hinge, or would I have to use hard rivets. Normally I'm using the soft rivets for nutplates. Thanks, guys! - Rob Wolf --Boundary_(ID_3GXc/rVdmx1uKa6oxtPtRg) Content-type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

Rob –

I’m at the same point myself. I vote for using hard rivets to install the Hartwell latch. They’re no more effort to install (or drill out should the need arise). Have you checked whether you have sufficient clearance for the RV goosneck hinge under the cowl? I fabricated my own J-hinge and it hits the #2 intake runner. I’ll have to scrap it and try something else.

-Adam Molny

From: rwolf99@aol.com [mailto:rwolf99@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 29, 2011 11:37 PM
To: lml@lancaironline.net
Subject: Oil Door Latches and Rivets

I'm using a standard Hartwell latch for my oil door -- just like a Wichita spam can. My question is whether to attach it to the door with rivets or screws. If I use screws, I can replace it easily and it's easier to paint. If I use rivets (which would have to be 5/32 rivets due to the hole size in the latch) then it's harder to replace, but you can't see the fasteners.

My wife says to use rivets, since I told her that I'd probably never have to replace the latch, but if so, I could drill out the rivets and then use "those shiny stainless screws".

For those of you using these latches -- what have y'all done?

FYI, I'm using a gooseneck hinge from an RV (Vans), so the actual hinge is not visible. Just the latch is visible. I'm not interested in using one of those elegant hidden actuators that some of you have, although they definitely look nice.

Next question -- since I'm not a sheet metal guy and know nothing about rivets, would I use soft rivets to attach the latch and also the hinge, or would I have to use hard rivets. Normally I'm using the soft rivets for nutplates.

Thanks, guys!

- Rob Wolf

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