X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Sender: To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2011 08:17:01 -0500 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from imr-da04.mx.aol.com ([205.188.105.146] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.4c2a) with ESMTP id 4832352 for lml@lancaironline.net; Mon, 31 Jan 2011 08:06:38 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.105.146; envelope-from=MikeEasley@aol.com Received: from mtaomg-ma02.r1000.mx.aol.com (mtaomg-ma02.r1000.mx.aol.com [172.29.41.9]) by imr-da04.mx.aol.com (8.14.1/8.14.1) with ESMTP id p0VD5jlm010314 for ; Mon, 31 Jan 2011 08:05:45 -0500 Received: from core-mkb002c.r1000.mail.aol.com (core-mkb002.r1000.mail.aol.com [172.29.98.5]) by mtaomg-ma02.r1000.mx.aol.com (OMAG/Core Interface) with ESMTP id B71EAE000081 for ; Mon, 31 Jan 2011 08:05:45 -0500 (EST) From: MikeEasley@aol.com X-Original-Message-ID: <6e1b1.2ab39945.3a780da9@aol.com> X-Original-Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2011 08:05:45 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: [LML] Re: Oil Door Latches and Rivets X-Original-To: lml@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_6e1b1.2ab39945.3a780da9_boundary" X-Mailer: AOL 9.6 sub 5001 X-AOL-IP: 75.71.55.189 X-Originating-IP: [172.29.233.27] x-aol-global-disposition: G X-AOL-SCOLL-SCORE: 0:2:457973280:93952408 X-AOL-SCOLL-URL_COUNT: 0 x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d29094d46b3a95471 --part1_6e1b1.2ab39945.3a780da9_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I second Grayhawk's comment. Any rivets through the skin should be covered with a layer of lightweight fiberglass cloth. I also used rivets to hold my aluminum hinge along my cowl seam and no signs of rivets after 5 years. If you don't you'll have little circular cracks in your paint after a year or so. I used a hinge for the latch side too, with a pull wire accessible through the cowl inlet, no visible latch. Mike Easley Colorado Springs In a message dated 1/30/2011 8:32:17 A.M. Mountain Standard Time, Sky2high@aol.com writes: Rob, You can use flush rivets and set them with a squeezer or the German made parallel jaw pliers. The trick to keep the rivet heads from showing through the paint is to put a layer of glass over the door - You can use fine fiber glass cloth obtained from a hobby shop. Didn't you have to rivet the hinge on? Grayhawk In a message dated 1/29/2011 10:36:52 P.M. Central Standard Time, rwolf99@aol.com writes: I'm using a standard Hartwell latch for my oil door -- just like a Wichita spam can. My question is whether to attach it to the door with rivets or screws. If I use screws, I can replace it easily and it's easier to paint. If I use rivets (which would have to be 5/32 rivets due to the hole size in the latch) then it's harder to replace, but you can't see the fasteners. My wife says to use rivets, since I told her that I'd probably never have to replace the latch, but if so, I could drill out the rivets and then use "those shiny stainless screws". For those of you using these latches -- what have y'all done? FYI, I'm using a gooseneck hinge from an RV (Vans), so the actual hinge is not visible. Just the latch is visible. I'm not interested in using one of those elegant hidden actuators that some of you have, although they definitely look nice. Next question -- since I'm not a sheet metal guy and know nothing about rivets, would I use soft rivets to attach the latch and also the hinge, or would I have to use hard rivets. Normally I'm using the soft rivets for nutplates. Thanks, guys! - Rob Wolf --part1_6e1b1.2ab39945.3a780da9_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I second Grayhawk's comment. Any rivets through the skin should = be=20 covered with a layer of lightweight fiberglass cloth. I also used riv= ets=20 to hold my aluminum hinge along my cowl seam and no signs of rivets after 5= =20 years. If you don't you'll have little circular cracks in your paint = after=20 a year or so.

I used a hinge for the latch side too, with a pull wire accessible thr= ough=20 the cowl inlet, no visible latch.

Mike Easley

Colorado Springs

In a message dated 1/30/2011 8:32:17 A.M. Mountain Standard Time,=20 Sky2high@aol.com writes:

=

Rob,

You can use flush rivets and set them with a squeezer or the German = made=20 parallel jaw pliers. The trick to keep the rivet heads from showing= =20 through the paint is to put a layer of glass over the door - You can use = fine=20 fiber glass cloth obtained from a hobby shop.

Didn't you have to rivet the hinge on?

Grayhawk

In a message dated 1/29/2011 10:36:52 P.M. Central Standard Time,=20 rwolf99@aol.com writes:

I'm using a standard Hartwell latch for my oil door -- just like a= =20 Wichita spam can. My question is whether to attach it to the door= with=20 rivets or screws. If I use screws, I can replace it easily and it= 's=20 easier to paint. If I use rivets (which would have to be 5/32 riv= ets=20 due to the hole size in the latch) then it's harder to replace, but you= =20 can't see the fasteners.

My wife says to use rivets, since I told her that I'd probably nev= er=20 have to replace the latch, but if so, I could drill out the rivets and = then=20 use "those shiny stainless screws".

For those of you using these latches -- what have y'all done?

FYI, I'm using a gooseneck hinge from an RV (Vans), so the actual = hinge=20 is not visible. Just the latch is visible. I'm not interest= ed in=20 using one of those elegant hidden actuators that some of you have, alth= ough=20 they definitely look nice.

Next question -- since I'm not a sheet metal guy and know nothing = about=20 rivets, would I use soft rivets to attach the latch and also the hinge,= or=20 would I have to use hard rivets. Normally I'm using the soft rive= ts=20 for nutplates.

Thanks, guys!

- Rob=20 Wolf

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