Mailing List lml@lancaironline.net Message #57341
From: <Sky2high@aol.com>
Sender: <marv@lancaironline.net>
Subject: Re: [LML] Oil Door Latches and Rivets
Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2011 10:31:58 -0500
To: <lml@lancaironline.net>
Rob,
 
You can use flush rivets and set them with a squeezer or the German made parallel jaw pliers.  The trick to keep the rivet heads from showing through the paint is to put a layer of glass over the door - You can use fine fiber glass cloth obtained from a hobby shop.
 
Didn't you have to rivet the hinge on?
 
Grayhawk
 
In a message dated 1/29/2011 10:36:52 P.M. Central Standard Time, rwolf99@aol.com writes:
I'm using a standard Hartwell latch for my oil door -- just like a Wichita spam can.  My question is whether to attach it to the door with rivets or screws.  If I use screws, I can replace it easily and it's easier to paint.  If I use rivets (which would have to be 5/32 rivets due to the hole size in the latch) then it's harder to replace, but you can't see the fasteners.
 
My wife says to use rivets, since I told her that I'd probably never have to replace the latch, but if so, I could drill out the rivets and then use "those shiny stainless screws".
 
For those of you using these latches -- what have y'all done?
 
FYI, I'm using a gooseneck hinge from an RV (Vans), so the actual hinge is not visible.  Just the latch is visible.  I'm not interested in using one of those elegant hidden actuators that some of you have, although they definitely look nice.
 
Next question -- since I'm not a sheet metal guy and know nothing about rivets, would I use soft rivets to attach the latch and also the hinge, or would I have to use hard rivets.  Normally I'm using the soft rivets for nutplates.
 
Thanks, guys!
 
- Rob Wolf

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