X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Sender: To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2011 10:31:58 -0500 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from mail-gx0-f180.google.com ([209.85.161.180] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.4c2a) with ESMTPS id 4831414 for lml@lancaironline.net; Sun, 30 Jan 2011 09:34:36 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=209.85.161.180; envelope-from=mehapgood@gmail.com Received: by gxk19 with SMTP id 19so4210179gxk.25 for ; Sun, 30 Jan 2011 06:33:59 -0800 (PST) DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; c=nofws; d=gmail.com; s=gamma; h=sender:references:in-reply-to:mime-version :content-transfer-encoding:content-type:message-id:cc:x-mailer:from :subject:date:to; b=BKUK1c49n+BjDI09gQWneFIniYBj2RtNYZEbn97YR3HH8WiwNL4LE4RUWjF3OFRJAC IQ8lyR49+9zRm6+TNZ2zmqr7wz10/P+wgPf2LKrvRDMAA2ZU1efhdg2ki54tjubOGQ0v Ow1/B7auQvfraBNIcLRj+jgVmSlIRmQNsrge4= Received: by 10.236.102.171 with SMTP id d31mr10130666yhg.19.1296398039856; Sun, 30 Jan 2011 06:33:59 -0800 (PST) X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from [10.52.219.13] ([166.137.9.150]) by mx.google.com with ESMTPS id 46sm3855810yhl.12.2011.01.30.06.33.54 (version=TLSv1/SSLv3 cipher=RC4-MD5); Sun, 30 Jan 2011 06:33:58 -0800 (PST) X-Original-Sender: Matt Hapgood References: In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 (iPad Mail 8C148) Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=Apple-Mail-9-263261019 X-Original-Message-Id: <214BCD50-449A-40E7-8C45-C1ECCE02AD4F@alumni.duke.edu> X-Original-Cc: "lml@lancaironline.net" X-Mailer: iPad Mail (8C148) From: Matt Hapgood Subject: Re: [LML] Oil Door Latches and Rivets X-Original-Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2011 09:33:55 -0500 X-Original-To: Lancair Mailing List , "rwolf99@aol.com" --Apple-Mail-9-263261019 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Screws. Definitely screws. I've broken mine and am at a loss as to what to d= o. It will still latch but I don't think it has much time left. =20 And I wouldn't paint the screws, because then removing them will be more dif= ficult. =20 Matt On Jan 29, 2011, at 11:36 PM, rwolf99@aol.com wrote: > I'm using a standard Hartwell latch for my oil door -- just like a Wichita= spam can. My question is whether to attach it to the door with rivets or s= crews. If I use screws, I can replace it easily and it's easier to paint. I= f I use rivets (which would have to be 5/32 rivets due to the hole size in t= he latch) then it's harder to replace, but you can't see the fasteners. > =20 > My wife says to use rivets, since I told her that I'd probably never have t= o replace the latch, but if so, I could drill out the rivets and then use "t= hose shiny stainless screws". > =20 > For those of you using these latches -- what have y'all done? > =20 > FYI, I'm using a gooseneck hinge from an RV (Vans), so the actual hinge is= not visible. Just the latch is visible. I'm not interested in using one o= f those elegant hidden actuators that some of you have, although they defini= tely look nice. > =20 > Next question -- since I'm not a sheet metal guy and know nothing about ri= vets, would I use soft rivets to attach the latch and also the hinge, or wou= ld I have to use hard rivets. Normally I'm using the soft rivets for nutpla= tes. > =20 > Thanks, guys! > =20 > - Rob Wolf >=20 --Apple-Mail-9-263261019 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Type: text/html; charset=utf-8

Screws. Definitely screws. I've broken mine and am at a loss as to what to do. It will still latch but I don't think it has much time left.

And I wouldn't paint the screws, because then removing them will be more difficult.

Matt

On Jan 29, 2011, at 11:36 PM, rwolf99@aol.com wrote:

I'm using a standard Hartwell latch for my oil door -- just like a Wichita spam can. My question is whether to attach it to the door with rivets or screws. If I use screws, I can replace it easily and it's easier to paint. If I use rivets (which would have to be 5/32 rivets due to the hole size in the latch) then it's harder to replace, but you can't see the fasteners.

My wife says to use rivets, since I told her that I'd probably never have to replace the latch, but if so, I could drill out the rivets and then use "those shiny stainless screws".

For those of you using these latches -- what have y'all done?

FYI, I'm using a gooseneck hinge from an RV (Vans), so the actual hinge is not visible. Just the latch is visible. I'm not interested in using one of those elegant hidden actuators that some of you have, although they definitely look nice.

Next question -- since I'm not a sheet metal guy and know nothing about rivets, would I use soft rivets to attach the latch and also the hinge, or would I have to use hard rivets. Normally I'm using the soft rivets for nutplates.

Thanks, guys!

- Rob Wolf

--Apple-Mail-9-263261019--