Return-Path: Received: from imo27.mx.aol.com ([198.81.17.71]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO203-101c) ID# 0-44819U2500L250S0) with ESMTP id AAA16245 for ; Fri, 18 Sep 1998 10:29:29 -0400 Received: from ReganRanch@aol.com by imo27.mx.aol.com (IMOv16.10) id 8MUFa10656 for ; Fri, 18 Sep 1998 10:26:31 -0400 (EDT) From: ReganRanch@aol.com Message-ID: <97a634b8.36026d97@aol.com> Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 10:26:31 EDT To: lancair.list@olsusa.com Subject: Landing Light X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> Andres asks: << Does anyone have a schematic on placing the light along the opening in front? if so any response will be appreciated. I wonder how it will affect airflow around the baffling system and how much reinforcement will be needed along the right side baffling, >> The landing lights on my Lycoming powered IV start 1" below the cooling inlets. One tip for any location is to make a Bondo mold of the area BEFORE you cut the hole. Do this by placing packing tape on the area, globbing on a wad of Bondo and back it up with a scrap of 3-core-3 or plywood. Once the hole is cut, position the Bondo mold in place and scribe a line of the opening. The mold can now be used to heat form some 1/8-inch Plexiglas for the lens. I used a toaster oven. Be sure to preheat the lens at about 250 deg F before forming to drive out the water absorbed by the acrylic. Trim the leans about 3/16 oversize and bond in with clear silicone. I mounted the lamp at the end of a 3 ply tube that was bonded directly to the cowling. No further reinforcement was required. Brent