Will,
While the fuselage is still upright, carefully level it both in pitch and
laterally using the longerons. The lateral level location on the
longeron should be marked, say at the same fs location as the face of the
main spar. Choose a consistent way to locate the level for pitch on both
longerons. Make any "level relevant" markings you like on bl 50
ribs, wing tips, firewall and/or tail. Remember that the first line the
designer drew was the longeron.
When you are preparing the jig supports (all of them), you may want to
transfer a level line to the jig (away from the wing camber cut-out) and
then screw two blocks on that line so that each jig can be also
leveled in pitch. You should make a simple (but long) water level for
a variety of uses as you continue - i.e. wing tip to wing tip jig for a lateral
level check.
When inverted and resting on supports, the longeron should not be padded
since that is one of your crucial leveling surfaces and you will probably
be using shims to get everything set up.
Good luck,
Scott Krueger
AKA Grayhawk
Lancair N92EX IO320 SB 89/96
Aurora, IL
(KARR)
In a message dated 4/24/2009 10:10:09 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
w.holden@insightbb.com writes:
Hey, everyone. I am leveling my fuse
inverted to get started on the wings. I bought by project second-hand
and I was wondering how you all have done this, getting the fuse level that
is. The book says that a table or two saw horses will do. Which
has worked best for everyone? My center section is already bonded.
Should I use the marks on the BL50 ribs to level the plane fore and aft and
side to side? I can't get to the the hole the manual states is on the
firewall to check with the tail reference for the fore/aft level. The
metal is already installed over the wood firewall. I have a super fast
build kit with just about all of the wing structure done. So I need to
make the jig support at the BL50 rib or will just the tips work? What
kind of padding should I use on the longerons once the plane is
inverted? Seems to me that anything is going to deform and make
subsequent measurements a little bit off. If anyone has pictures,
comments, tricks, or lessons learned, I greatly appreciate it!