X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Sender: To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 20:23:04 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from imr-m06.mx.aol.com ([64.12.138.200] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2.13) with ESMTP id 3576828 for lml@lancaironline.net; Fri, 10 Apr 2009 14:46:39 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=64.12.138.200; envelope-from=RWolf99@aol.com Received: from imo-ma04.mx.aol.com (imo-ma04.mx.aol.com [64.12.78.139]) by imr-m06.mx.aol.com (v107.10) with ESMTP id RELAYIN6-749df937f180; Fri, 10 Apr 2009 14:44:15 -0400 Received: from RWolf99@aol.com by imo-ma04.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v40_r1.5.) id q.c6b.525db702 (37546) for ; Fri, 10 Apr 2009 14:44:13 -0400 (EDT) Received: from smtprly-ma01.mx.aol.com (smtprly-ma01.mx.aol.com [64.12.207.140]) by cia-mb02.mx.aol.com (v123.3) with ESMTP id MAILCIAMB027-5c4949df937533a; Fri, 10 Apr 2009 14:44:15 -0400 Received: from mblk-d50 (mblk-d50.mblk.aol.com [205.188.212.234]) by smtprly-ma01.mx.aol.com (v123.3) with ESMTP id MAILSMTPRLYMA017-5c4949df937533a; Fri, 10 Apr 2009 14:44:05 -0400 X-Original-To: lml@lancaironline.net Subject: Walter Atkinson -- Engine Break In X-Original-Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 14:44:05 -0400 X-MB-Message-Source: WebUI X-AOL-IP: 64.12.78.139 X-MB-Message-Type: User MIME-Version: 1.0 From: rwolf99@aol.com Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="--------MB_8CB882375E80081_A20_5F53_mblk-d50.sysops.aol.com" X-Mailer: AOL Webmail 42402-STANDARD Received: from 72.19.171.41 by mblk-d50.sysops.aol.com (205.188.212.234) with HTTP (WebMailUI); Fri, 10 Apr 2009 14:44:05 -0400 X-Original-Message-Id: <8CB882375E33BD1-A20-2EF7@mblk-d50.sysops.aol.com> X-Spam-Flag:NO ----------MB_8CB882375E80081_A20_5F53_mblk-d50.sysops.aol.com Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I'm directing this question to Walter Atkinson, but I think it will be of interest to the entire Lancair community -- plus any other homebuilder group. I have a factory new Lycoming engine on my Lancair (IO-360-B1F).? It came from the factory having been run in their test cell for a little over an hour (standard run-in, I did not ask for anything special).? It even came with a test?log sheet and a?nifty litle certificate that says "No further run-in is required". I plan to run the engine for the first time this summer, although I will probably not be flying for another year.? Should I be limiting this engine run to just a few minutes at idle power only, or can I feel free to run it up to 2500 RPM and exercise the controllable pitch prop?? Should I worry about glazing over the cylinder walls or has the factory run-in taken care of that? I know it is not fully broken in, but could I be damaging it (glazing the cylinders) if I do this wrong? After I do this, I'll probably put the dehydrator plugs back in, plus plug the exhaust pipes and reconnect a silica-gel bottle to the crankcase breather tube, but I probably won't "pickle" the engine. For what it is worth, the engine has a cooling plenum so I should be able to run it for awhile without overheating. Thanks in advance for your advice. - Rob Wolf ----------MB_8CB882375E80081_A20_5F53_mblk-d50.sysops.aol.com Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" I'm directing this question to Walter Atkinson, but I think it will be of interest to the entire Lancair community -- plus any other homebuilder group.

I have a factory new Lycoming engine on my Lancair (IO-360-B1F).  It came from the factory having been run in their test cell for a little over an hour (standard run-in, I did not ask for anything special).  It even came with a test log sheet and a nifty litle certificate that says "No further run-in is required".

I plan to run the engine for the first time this summer, although I will probably not be flying for another year.  Should I be limiting this engine run to just a few minutes at idle power only, or can I feel free to run it up to 2500 RPM and exercise the controllable pitch prop?  Should I worry about glazing over the cylinder walls or has the factory run-in taken care of that?

I know it is not fully broken in, but could I be damaging it (glazing the cylinders) if I do this wrong?

After I do this, I'll probably put the dehydrator plugs back in, plus plug the exhaust pipes and reconnect a silica-gel bottle to the crankcase breather tube, but I probably won't "pickle" the engine.

For what it is worth, the engine has a cooling plenum so I should be able to run it for awhile without overheating.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

- Rob Wolf ----------MB_8CB882375E80081_A20_5F53_mblk-d50.sysops.aol.com--