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Harry,
That is an idea I have not explored but this week I am finishing up on a magnetic helper at the trailing edge to see whether that will work. If not, your idea sounds like a possibility. Thanks
Mark Quinn
-----Original Message-----
From: Harry League <harryleague@comcast.net>
To: lml@lancaironline.net
Sent: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 1:55 pm
Subject: [LML] Re: outback gear doors-vibration is back
Just a thought: would a couple of air vents in the doors solve the problem? Start small and move larger until the noise stops or the doors stay shut.
Posted for mquinns@aol.com:
Dom,
AC-DC is not to my taste but listening to them would be far more musical
and pleasant than gear door rumblings. Attached is a close up picture of a
musical nocturne.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: Dominic V. Crain <domcrain@tpg.com.au>
To: lml@lancaironline.net
Sent: Fri, 5 Dec 2008 12:06 pm
Subject: [LML] Re: outback gear doors-vibration is back
I would think that the gear doors rumbling would be far more musical than
listening to AC-DC.
Cheers
Dom
VH-CZJ
&nb
sp;
From: Lancair Mailing List [mailto:lml@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of
mquinns@aol.com
Sent: Friday, 5 December 2008 3:25 PM
To: lml@lancaironline.net
Subject: [LML] Re: outback gear doors-vibration is back
Gerard,
I had the same problem. Whenever the airspeed started moving past 210
knots a buzz would start and then turn into a rumble as the plane went faster.
If the aircraft was decelerated......to a speed around 205 knots, the rumbling
and buzzing would disappear but would reappear if the aircraft accelerated
back above 210 knots. I was certain it was the nose gear door (made from
fiberglass) so I took the advice in archive and fabricated a much stiffer
aluminum door. To my surprise the buzzing and rumbling problem was still there
over certain speeds.!!!!???!!!! Fortunately for me, I live at at a place where
we formation fly to breakfast every Saturday and I usually fly with the SX-300
guys. One of these friends volunteered to go up with me and formate under me
to
see if the problem could be observed. Apparently, the main gear doors
trailing edges are being sucked out into the slipstream at certain airspeeds.
We repeated the speed runs (accelerate/decelerate) and proble! m was clear.
My plane does
have a difference with yours which is, even though I have
the outback gear, I decided to use the original cutout doors thinking they
would create less drag. Don't know whether they do or not but have been unable
after many different attempts to keep the doors closed at high speed. In
January I will be racing and afterwards plan on doing a major condition
inspection (demating wings, removing all control surfaces, etc) and at that
time will fit the original outback gear doors from the option kit. They do
appear to be stiffer (I hope they don't generate more drag). I hope that this
cures my problem. Some of the Reno racers have recommended stiffening gear
doors because this is a common problem for them while racing. If you find a
magic bullet to correct the problem, please post it.
Mark Quinn
Lancair 360
Spruce Creek Fly-in, Florida
-----Original Message-----
From: gerardoconnell@optusnet.com.au
To: lml@lancaironline.net
Sent: Wed, 3 Dec 2008 9:15 pm
Subject: [LML] outback gear doors-vibration is back
Hi Ian and those whom have had gear door problems
-Gerard from Down Under/Up Over has gremlins again
Hope you're=2
0going well and enjoying you're flying. I'm just writing a quick
note
both on and off
list as we've been over this ground before.
Do you recall discussing the buzzing noise I had some time back which I
resolved
both by removing the nose gear door and overlapping the main and inboard gear
doors to get better "purchase" and stop vibration.
Well guess what? Thhe noise is now starting to return-I initially thought I
had the bass turned up too much whilst listening to AC -DC but even with the
radio off I can appreciate the buzz from outside the aircraft.
Perhaps I need to listen to Robbie Williams instead?
I originally spent thousands of $ trying various solutions to this problem
and
the final fix has worked for about 200 hours. I understand that some have
also
extended the door hinge/bracket to address this problem.
In short, my question is this-did you have this buzzing/vibration problem and
what methods did you employ before removing the inner gear doors altogether?
Is
this my best short cut to making the problem go away once and for all?
&
nbsp;Your thoughts would be appreciated including and issues you mar or may nopt
have
experienced after removing the inner doors.
Cheers,
Gerard
--
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