X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Sender: To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Thu, 04 Dec 2008 23:25:03 -0500 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from imo-d06.mx.aol.com ([205.188.157.38] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2.10) with ESMTP id 3330376 for lml@lancaironline.net; Thu, 04 Dec 2008 09:09:58 -0500 Received: from Mquinns@aol.com by imo-d06.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v39.1.) id q.bf3.4767436e (37061) for ; Thu, 4 Dec 2008 09:09:51 -0500 (EST) Received: from smtprly-mb01.mx.aol.com (smtprly-mb01.mx.aol.com [64.12.207.148]) by cia-db04.mx.aol.com (v121_r4.6) with ESMTP id MAILCIADB047-5c624937e4aa3d1; Thu, 04 Dec 2008 09:09:50 -0500 Received: from WEBMAIL-MC11 (webmail-mc11.webmail.aol.com [64.12.170.88]) by smtprly-mb01.mx.aol.com (v121_r3.13) with ESMTP id MAILSMTPRLYMB018-5c624937e4aa3d1; Thu, 04 Dec 2008 09:09:46 -0500 References: X-Original-To: lml@lancaironline.net Subject: Re: [LML] outback gear doors-vibration is back X-Original-Date: Thu, 04 Dec 2008 09:09:46 -0500 X-AOL-IP: 207.126.196.16 In-Reply-To: X-MB-Message-Source: WebUI MIME-Version: 1.0 From: mquinns@aol.com X-MB-Message-Type: User Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="--------MB_8CB243118E21E44_14A0_1FC_WEBMAIL-MC11.sysops.aol.com" X-Mailer: AOL Webmail 39997-STANDARD Received: from 207.126.196.16 by WEBMAIL-MC11.sysops.aol.com (64.12.170.88) with HTTP (WebMailUI); Thu, 04 Dec 2008 09:09:46 -0500 X-Original-Message-Id: <8CB243118C0BD66-14A0-FB@WEBMAIL-MC11.sysops.aol.com> X-Spam-Flag:NO ----------MB_8CB243118E21E44_14A0_1FC_WEBMAIL-MC11.sysops.aol.com Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Gerard, ?? I had the same problem. Whenever the airspeed started moving past 210 knots a buzz would start and then turn into a rumble as the plane went faster. If the aircraft was decelerated......to a speed around 205 knots, the rumbling and buzzing would disappear but would reappear if the aircraft accelerated back above 210 knots. I was certain it was the nose gear door (made from fiberglass) so I took the advice in archive and fabricated a much stiffer aluminum door. To my surprise the buzzing and rumbling problem was still there over certain speeds.!!!!???!!!! Fortunately for me, I live at at a place where we formation fly to breakfast every Saturday and I usually fly with the SX-300 guys. One of these friends volunteered to go up with me and formate under me to see if the problem could be observed. Apparently, the main gear doors trailing edges are being sucked out into the slipstream at certain airspeeds. We repeated the speed runs (accelerate/decelerate) and problem was clear. ?? My plane does have a difference with yours which is, even though I have the outback gear, I decided?to use the original cutout doors thinking they would create less drag. Don't know whether they do or not but have been unable after many different attempts to keep the doors closed at high speed. In January I will be racing and afterwards plan on doing a major condition inspection (demating wings, removing all control surfaces, etc) and at that time will fit the original outback gear doors from the option kit. They do appear to be stiffer (I hope they don't generate more drag). I hope that this cures my problem. Some of the Reno racers have recommended stiffening gear doors because this is a common problem for them while racing. If you find a magic bullet to correct the problem, please post?it.? Mark Quinn Lancair 360 Spruce Creek Fly-in, Florida -----Original Message----- From: gerardoconnell@optusnet.com.au To: lml@lancaironline.net Sent: Wed, 3 Dec 2008 9:15 pm Subject: [LML] outback gear doors-vibration is back Hi Ian and those whom have had gear door problems -Gerard from Down Under/Up Over has gremlins again Hope you're going well and enjoying you're flying. I'm just writing a quick note both on and off list as we've been over this ground before. Do you recall discussing the buzzing noise I had some time back which I resolved both by removing the nose gear door and overlapping the main and inboard gear doors to get better "purchase" and stop vibration. Well guess what? Thhe noise is now starting to return-I initially thought I had the bass turned up too much whilst listening to AC -DC but even with the radio off I can appreciate the buzz from outside the aircraft. Perhaps I need to listen to Robbie Williams instead? I originally spent thousands of $ trying various solutions to this problem and the final fix has worked for about 200 hours. I understand that some have also extended the door hinge/bracket to address this problem. In short, my question is this-did you have this buzzing/vibration problem and what methods did you employ before removing the inner gear doors altogether? Is this my best short cut to making the problem go away once and for all? Your thoughts would be appreciated including and issues you mar or may nopt have experienced after removing the inner doors. Cheers, Gerard -- For archives and unsub http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/lml/List.html ----------MB_8CB243118E21E44_14A0_1FC_WEBMAIL-MC11.sysops.aol.com Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Gerard,
   I had the same problem. Whenever the airspeed started moving past 210 knots a buzz would start and then turn into a rumble as the plane went faster. If the aircraft was decelerated......to a speed around 205 knots, the rumbling and buzzing would disappear but would reappear if the aircraft accelerated back above 210 knots. I was certain it was the nose gear door (made from fiberglass) so I took the advice in archive and fabricated a much stiffer aluminum door. To my surprise the buzzing and rumbling problem was still there over certain speeds.!!!!???!!!! Fortunately for me, I live at at a place where we formation fly to breakfast every Saturday and I usually fly with the SX-300 guys. One of these friends volunteered to go up with me and formate under me to see if the problem could be observed. Apparently, the main gear doors trailing edges are being sucked out into the slipstream at certain airspeeds. We repeated the speed runs (accelerate/decelerate) and problem was clear.
   My plane does have a difference with yours which is, even though I have the outback gear, I decided to use the original cutout doors thinking they would create less drag. Don't know whether they do or not but have been unable after many different attempts to keep the doors closed at high speed. In January I will be racing and afterwards plan on doing a major condition inspection (demating wings, removing all control surfaces, etc) and at that time will fit the original outback gear doors from the option kit. They do appear to be stiffer (I hope they don't generate more drag). I hope that this cures my problem. Some of the Reno racers have recommended stiffening gear doors because this is a common problem for them while racing. If you find a magic bullet to correct the problem, please post it. 

Mark Quinn
Lancair 360
Spruce Creek Fly-in, Florida


-----Original Message-----
From: gerardoconnell@optusnet.com.au
To: lml@lancaironline.net
Sent: Wed, 3 Dec 2008 9:15 pm
Subject: [LML] outback gear doors-vibration is back



Hi Ian and those whom have had gear door problems

-Gerard from Down Under/Up Over has gremlins again


Hope you're going well and enjoying you're flying. I'm just writing a quick note 
both on and off list as we've been over this ground before. 

Do you recall discussing the buzzing noise I had some time back which I resolved 
both by removing the nose gear door and overlapping the main and inboard gear 
doors to get better "purchase" and stop vibration.

Well guess what?   Thhe noise is now starting to return-I initially thought I 
had the bass turned up too much whilst listening to AC -DC but even with the 
radio off I can appreciate the buzz from outside the aircraft. 

Perhaps I need to listen to Robbie Williams instead?

I originally spent thousands of $ trying various solutions to this problem and 
the final fix has worked for about 200 hours. I understand that some have also 
extended the door hinge/bracket to address this problem.

In short, my question is this-did you have this buzzing/vibration problem and 
what methods did you employ before removing the inner gear doors altogether? Is 
this my best short cut to making the problem go away once and for all?

Your thoughts would be appreciated including and issues you mar or may nopt have 
experienced after removing the inner doors.


Cheers,

Gerard





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