Really-From: olsen@eai.com
Message-ID: <38BC2137.7704D055@eai.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 12:42:47 -0700
From: Dan Olsen <olsen@eai.com>
Organization: Engineering Animation, Inc.
To: Lancair List <lancair.list@olsusa.com>
Subject: 320 wing close-out experiences
Mime-Version: 1.0

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I just closed out both of the wings on my 320 and want to pass
along my experiences for the benefit of those who have yet to
do this.

The first wing I did all by myself and I really kept moving mixing
and spreading the Hysol, but ran into no troubles.  I got excellent
squeeze-out all around (the inside of the fuel tank has little
stalagtites and stalagmites on the skins from the oozing Hysol).  I
borrowed a friend's bore scope to look inside and all is well.

For each wing, I ended up mixing up two 8oz. batches of Hysol and
that was plenty.  I covered all bonding surfaces with a thin coat
and then added 10% flox to the remaining Hysol and applied it in a
thick bead down the middle of all bonding surfaces with a cake
decorating bag.  After scraping up much of the extra that oozed out,
I probably have 2-3oz left over.

I did not use cradles.  The wing was placed on a piece of scrap
carpet on the concrete floor.  I used 4 smallish sand bags to
level the wing (2 under the leading edge and 2 under the trailing
edge).  I borrowed 500lbs of lead shot bags from a local ES builder
and ended up using about 450lbs.  I used 7' long steel U-channel
over the bond lines at the front and rear spars to evenly distribute
the weight.  The rest of the shot bags were placed over each of the
ribs.

Things I learned:
        1. I applied a thin film of grease to the slosh doors and
           their mating surfaces in case any Hysol dripped on them
           it could be removed.  Fuel will quickly dissolve the
           grease.  Also, do not apply the thick bead of Hysol to
	   the slosh rib (it is not structural in the 320 anyway)
	   so as to minimize any squeeze out there.
        2. Cover the aileron bellcrank with plastic so Hysol does
           not ooze out onto it.  I didn't do this and had a mess
           to clean off the bellcrank.
        3. Make sure you have level lines on both the BL-50 and
           BL-134 ribs ahead of time.  Keep verifying a level
           condition on both as you add weights.  I initially had
           induced a slight twist with all that weight and had to
           remove some of it to re-level the tip.

Both wings turned out perfectly.  I did not care for the method
in the manual where only the ends of the wing are supported and
lots of weight is applied.

If anyone has questions about this, please e-mail me.


Dan Olsen
olsen@eai.com
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