<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
          <<  Lancair Builders' Mail List  >>
          <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>
Rick,
Either Polyurethane or Acrylic Urethane would be satisfactory for your 360.
I have used both in the past with excellent results on IV-P's. According to
my paint supplier (PPG) the Polyurethane is superior in terms of hardness,
resistance to fluids, bugs, rain, etc. Weight will be virtually identical
and primarily a function of the painter's technique. The acrylic urethane is
actually newer technology, as it is used primarily in the auto industry.
Polyurethane is overkill for the average car but can be found on
Semi-trucks.

I would also echo the earlier comments that sanding between base and clear
coats is not correct. I assume that the additional money includes
wet-sanding and buffing, as clear application alone would add about $200 in
materials and 2.5
hours to the time required to paint a 360.
One thing to keep in mind is, with a clearcoated job you can wetsand and
buff 5 years from now and have a fresh looking paint job.

Brad Simmons
Airframes Inc.
btsim1@iswt.com


>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
LML website:   http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html
Builders' Bookstore:   http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair

Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>