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Tom,
Yeah, you can pay $50 or so one of those
nutplate jigs (in each size you'll need), or you can make your own for free -
just use an appropriately sized screw or bolt and a few washers to hold the
nutplate in place, drill one rivet hole, stick a spare rivet in it to keep the
nutplate from rotating, and drill the other rivet hole. And you can
reuse it for all types of nutplates (trust me, you'll probably find
instances where you'll need different nutplates than those that came with the
kit)!
I've used pop rivets in a few places to hold the
nutplates, and they hold up with no problem. I'm pretty sure I used the
Cherry 100 deg. countersunk rivets CCR264SS-3-x.
Oh, by the way, if you use the nutplate card method
(attaching the nutplates to a 1/16" BID or phenolic "card", then attach the card
to whatever the nutplate was supposed to attach to using Hysol), it's a
heck of a lot easier to drill (and rivet, especially if you're using solid
rivets) if you make a whole card or strip of these and cut the individual
nutplates off after assembly (see the construction section of Marv's website if
this is confusing).
Gary Fitzgerald
LNC2 extra-slow build ~70%
engine:
TBD
St. Charles, MO
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 5:22
PM
Subject: [LML] nut plate jig use and
availability
Would appreciate comments about nut
plate jig use for 320 kit construction. Also, whether or not
pull-through rivets can be used to anchor nut plates.
Tom Brand
Make your little one a shining star! Shine
on!
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