X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com X-SpamCatcher-Score: 2 [X] Return-Path: Received: from [68.202.132.19] (account marv@lancaironline.net) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro WEBUSER 5.1.7) with HTTP id 1878997 for lml@lancaironline.net; Fri, 02 Mar 2007 13:46:22 -0500 From: marv@lancair.net Subject: Re: [LML] Re: 235/320/360 nose strut question To: X-Mailer: CommuniGate Pro WebUser v5.1.7 Date: Fri, 02 Mar 2007 13:46:22 -0500 Message-ID: In-Reply-To: References: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1";format="flowed" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Posted for Sky2high@aol.com: In a message dated 3/2/2007 9:17:38 A.M. Central Standard Time, marv@lancair.net writes: If I remember right, most of the wear was on the aluminum. I should take another look. Wiring the bolt sounds like a good idea. Yes, wiring the bolt does sound like a good idea. In my case, I have slight elongation of the holes in the tab and no wear in the alloy link piece (I don't think it is merely aluminum). Like Chris, I found that regular replacement of the bolt "tightened" up the whole contraption somewhat. Were I to use a bearing, it would have to extend through the tab holes so that the bolt/nut would tighten against the bearing, leaving enough "looseness" so that the link would be able to freely pivot on the bearing, but the tab would be held firmly. Scott Krueger AKA Grayhawk Lancair N92EX IO320 SB 89/96 Aurora, IL (KARR) Darwinian culling phrase: Watch This! [Don Gordon and I have been talking about this for awhile and are probably going to incorporate the bearing fix into his LNC2 in the near future. Allowing the bearings to prorude through the tab holes and tightening to them would suggest that you want the link to rotate around the bearing, rather than allowing the bearing to rotate around the bolt. I don't think that's the best solution, as now the wear surface would become the area at that thin edge of the tabs instead of the inner surface of the bearings against the bolt. It would be better to press-fit the bearings into the o/c link so they can't spin in the link. Additionally, press fit flanged bearings into the tabs on the strut and allow them to extend inboard far enough to remove any axial play in the o/c link itself. Tighten the bolt to capture the flanged bearings in the tabs and safety it so that part of the assembly becomes immobile (ie, no rotation of any kind at the tabs). The edges of the link bearings will rotate against the inboard edges of the flanged bearings (flanges outboard, facing the bolt head and washer/nut on the other end) with no axial play. The link bearings will rotate around the bolt making the interface between them the only wear surface, one that is easily renewed with new bearings when required. Just my 2c. ]