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	<td align="center" class="externalHeader"><a href="../">Mailing List lml@lancaironline.net Message #3</a></td>
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<tr><td class="rfcfieldname">From:</td>
	<td class="rfcfieldvalue">J. N. Cameron &lt;toucan@The-I.net&gt;</td></tr>

<tr><td class="rfcfieldname">Subject:</td>
	<td class="rfcfieldvalue">Aileron weights; ES wing fairings</td></tr>

<tr><td class="rfcfieldname">Date:</td>
	<td class="rfcfieldvalue">Sun, 2 Sep 2001 10:36:09 -0500</td></tr>

<tr><td class="rfcfieldname">To:</td>
	<td class="rfcfieldvalue">Lancair List &lt;lancair.list@olsusa.com&gt;</td></tr>

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<tr><td><div class="textBeg" data-body-marker="20537"/><tt class="letterText"> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;---&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;<br/>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&lt;&lt; &nbsp;Lancair Builders&#39; Mail List &nbsp;&gt;&gt;<br/>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;---&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt; <br/>
&gt;&gt;<br/>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;An easy mold for aileron weights is to just use a router in a piece of<br/>
1x4 to rout out a cavity the width of the aileron flange, 1/2&quot; deep and<br/>
about 12 or 15 inches long. &nbsp;Melt lead in an old cast iron skillet or pan,<br/>
then prop one edge of the mold up when you pour lead to make a weight with a<br/>
wedge-shaped profile. &nbsp; The wooden mold smokes a bit when you pour the lead,<br/>
but I&#39;ve used the same mold for two ES&#39;s now, and it&#39;s still in good shape.<br/>
These can be attached with screws, Hysol, e-glass, or whatever. &nbsp;BTW, you&#39;ll<br/>
probably have to grind out some of the wing core to allow proper travel.<br/>
<br/>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;As for wing fairings, these are probably the most miserable, sorriest<br/>
pieces in the whole kit. &nbsp;Why they&#39;re still using the polyester resin<br/>
moldings I&#39;ll never know. &nbsp; &nbsp;The resin heats up and gets gummy when you try<br/>
to cut, sand, or grind it; &nbsp;the parts weigh far too much; and it really<br/>
gives you the itchies working with it. &nbsp;Long sleeves, gloves, and a good<br/>
dust mask highly recommended with this stuff.<br/>
<br/>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;On both my ES&#39;s, I fitted the top fairings first, trimming in several<br/>
stages until I got a reasonable fit. &nbsp;The final part (thankfully!) ends up<br/>
about 1/3 the size (and weight) of the original molded piece. &nbsp;On my second<br/>
ES (nearly done !?), the inboard edge of the FB wings was about 1&quot; inboard<br/>
of where it was supposed to be. &nbsp;I thought hard about trimming it back to<br/>
the 25.5&quot; from centerline that it&#39;s supposed to be, but the inboard ribs and<br/>
reinforcements for the wing attach plates were also inboard of where they&#39;re<br/>
supposed to be, so I couldn&#39;t trim the wings without cutting into all that.<br/>
As a result, the radius needed for the wing root fairing is tighter than the<br/>
molded piece. &nbsp;Bottom line is that I don&#39;t have as nice a curve blend from<br/>
wing to fuselage as I&#39;d like, but, hey, it&#39;s a Lancair! &nbsp;After a while you<br/>
don&#39;t expect anything to fit, you just sit down and figure out what you have<br/>
to do to get something you&#39;re satisfied with.<br/>
<br/>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Another trick -- on the upper fairing, the curve forward to aft doesn&#39;t<br/>
match the curve of the top of the wing. &nbsp;These compound-curve pieces don&#39;t<br/>
want to bend in certain directions, so I ended up cutting a series of slits<br/>
from the top down toward the wing, maybe 4 or 5&quot; deep and 3 or 4&quot; &nbsp;apart, so<br/>
I could bend the fairing to match the wing. &nbsp;Filled the slots with flox when<br/>
I bonded the fairing on. &nbsp;(Same trick on the door frame, which also doesn&#39;t<br/>
match the curve of the fuselage.)<br/>
<br/>
Jim Cameron<br/>
N143ES reserved<br/>
<br/>
<br/>
&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;<br/>
LML website: &nbsp; <a href="http://www.olsusa.com/mkaye/maillist.html" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">http://www.olsusa.com/mkaye/maillist.html</a><br/>
LML Builders&#39; Bookstore: &nbsp; <a href="http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair</a><br/>
<br/>
Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com.<br/>
&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;<br/>
</tt>
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