X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com X-SpamCatcher-Score: 1 [X] Return-Path: Sender: To: lml Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2007 13:35:37 -0500 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from imo-d23.mx.aol.com ([205.188.139.137] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.1.4) with ESMTP id 1735435 for lml@lancaironline.net; Thu, 04 Jan 2007 11:28:34 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.139.137; envelope-from=Sky2high@aol.com Received: from Sky2high@aol.com by imo-d23.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r7.6.) id q.c6d.8bcbba0 (14501) for ; Thu, 4 Jan 2007 11:27:42 -0500 (EST) From: Sky2high@aol.com X-Original-Message-ID: X-Original-Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2007 11:27:39 EST Subject: Re: [LML] Re: Nose strut inspections - all models X-Original-To: lml@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1167928059" X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 5358 X-Spam-Flag: NO -------------------------------1167928059 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 1/4/2007 9:03:55 A.M. Central Standard Time, christopher.zavatson@baesystems.com writes: << What is the inspection you are recommending-- loosen the fork attach bolts and check for oil leakage?>> Yep, take the fork off and look/feel inside the tube. Large leaks are more obvious as accumulated oil will come draining out all over the fork and tire as the bolts are loosened. Chris, et al, Your recommendation should be at least a part of the annual condition inspection. I believe there is more to be done. I am on a third ESCO strut because of rebuilding problems (adding self centering mod) and even A new ESCO strut that had loose internal parts that led to the leaking and trashing of that strut. I suggest the following. Every post/pre flight - Visually: 1. Inspect the strut for fluid leakage out of the bottom of the tube; 2. Check the two hex head bolts at the front of the strut (safety wired, below the Schrader valve) for leakage; 3. Check the Allen head bolts at the base of the strut and the clamping bolt. 4. Clean the strut of any engine compartment goop/oil so the next inspection is of a relatively clean strut. Every annual: Perform the visual checks and: 1. Clip the safety wire and check the light torque of the two bolts. I had the seals for these bolts start to leak and slightly tightening the bolts stopped the leak (about 1 face), they were then re-safety wired. Consider replacing the seals if there is any sign of a leak. Contact Lancair about the seals. 2. Check the torque of the Allen head bolts at the strut base. I had mine loosen up. They probably should have "blue" thread lock applied if they are relatively free of oil. 3. Check the area around the Schrader valve. 4. Remove the fork and check for fluid present in the tube. If any, get the thing rebuilt. 5. Upon reattaching the fork, make sure the clamp is properly torqued. 6. It may be useful to check the turn damping by the greased metal plate technique. I have enjoyed 956 takeoffs, 955 landings and miles of taxiing on these struts without catastrophic "problems" because of quick reaction to any symptoms of impending failure. Scott Krueger AKA Grayhawk Lancair N92EX IO320 SB 89/96 Aurora, IL (KARR) A man has got to know his limitations. -------------------------------1167928059 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
In a message dated 1/4/2007 9:03:55 A.M. Central Standard Time,=20 christopher.zavatson@baesystems.com writes:
<= FONT=20 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size= =3D2>

<<= What is the=20 inspection you are recommending-- loosen the fork attach bolts and check f= or=20 oil leakage?>>

Yep, take the f= ork=20 off and look/feel inside the tube.  Large leaks are more obvious as=20 accumulated oil will come draining out all over the fork and tire as the b= olts=20 are loosened.

Chris, et al,
 
Your recommendation should be at least a part of the annual condition=20 inspection.  I believe there is more to be done.  I am on a t= hird=20 ESCO strut because of rebuilding problems (adding self centering mod) a= nd=20 even A new ESCO strut that had loose internal parts that led to the leaking=20= and=20 trashing of that strut.
 
I suggest the following.
 
Every post/pre flight - Visually: 
1. Inspect the strut for fluid leakage out of the bottom of the tube;
2. Check the two hex head bolts at the front of the strut (safety=20 wired, below the Schrader valve) for leakage;
3. Check the Allen head bolts at the base of the strut and the clamping= =20 bolt.
4. Clean the strut of any engine compartment goop/oil so the next=20 inspection is of a relatively clean strut.
 
Every annual:
Perform the visual checks and:
1. Clip the safety wire and check the light torque of the two bolts. I=20= had=20 the seals for these bolts start to leak and slightly tightening the=20 bolts stopped the leak (about 1 face), they were then re-safety=20 wired.  Consider replacing the seals if there is any sign of a leak.&nb= sp;=20 Contact Lancair about the seals.
2. Check the torque of the Allen head bolts at the strut base.  I=20 had mine loosen up.  They probably should have "blue" thread=20= lock=20 applied if they are relatively free of oil.
3. Check the area around the Schrader valve.
4. Remove the fork and check for fluid present in the tube.  If an= y,=20 get the thing rebuilt.
5. Upon reattaching the fork, make sure the clamp is properly=20 torqued.
6. It may be useful to check the turn damping by the greased=20 metal plate technique.
 
I have enjoyed 956 takeoffs, 955 landings and miles of taxiing on these= =20 struts without catastrophic "problems" because of quick reaction to any= =20 symptoms of impending failure.
 
Scott Krueger=20 AKA Grayhawk
Lancair N92EX IO320 SB 89/96
Aurora, IL (KARR)

A m= an=20 has got to know his limitations.
-------------------------------1167928059--