In a message dated 12/12/2006 1:45:22 P.M. Central Standard Time,
marv@lancaironline.net writes:
Do you have a construction manual? It must not be clamped flat.
You should have some high density Clark foam that would be shaped for a spacer
and floxed between the main spar and the belly pan. It is about 1.5 or
1.75 inches at the center of the main spar and will have passages thru it along
each side of the nose gear tunnel for electrical and hydraulic lines.
The same idea is true for the rear spar area where the passage area is
provided at the center in thru the area between the console sides and
elevator tunnel sides - again, for hydraulic and electrical
lines.
Yes, as you can see from temporarily fitting a stub wing top skin, they
must both be firmly attached to the spar, flox filled and 2-BID (about 2.5"
wide) in the joggle to secure the seam.
See above, although the foam spacer would provide for a 1" to 1.25" or
so distance between the spar and the inner skin of the belly pan at the
center.
Is there any foam rib on the spar where the pan meets the main
spar at bl 50
,or is that to be removed prior to bonding on the pan.
The instructions are
very vague about the whole pan process but do say that
the pan and main spar
are not for alignment purposes.
No. In fact, you may have to remove inner skin and nomex (for about
8" towards the CL) from the belly pan to fit the wing spar to the main
spar.
I guess what I'm asking is, is my main spar to far
fwd, is it angled to
far
in one direction, my measurements confirm
that it is perpendicular to the fuse
IE tip measure to outboard spar
ends.
There are dimensions in the manual, check them. You should have laid
down and mark a center line (CL) on the fuselage. Each tip of the wing
spar should measure the same distance from the CL. Select a CL point at
the tail and measure the distance from each wing spar tip to the tail CL point -
they should be equal for the spar to be square.
Is it better to have the pan run more parallel to the spar for
good bonding
and just fill in at the gaps between fuse and belly pan? at the
rear end see
fig 6 this gap is present when the pan is more parallel to the
main spar.
Or is it better to have the rear joggle be perfect and the
joints out board
of the joggle be perfect and not worry about the alignment
of the pan to main
spar knowing that the top skin will bond to the main spar
and the belly pan
making a good connection to the spar?
Make the best fit that you can so that the belly pan is structurally bonded
to the spars with the ability of the 2-BID tapes in the joglles to properly
finish th eseams.
I am not opposed to cutting out the main and aft spar to achieve
a better
fit
but my measurements imply that its where it belongs. I
feel like after the
pan is installed the spar is where its going to
stay.
Check that the rear spar is square also. Cut the belly pan and cleco
it while you figure out the foam pads.
Sooo No further
progress is being made cause I'm not going
to screw up this part without
someone elses input.
Thanks for all
responses I feel like I'm at a point of no return if i bond
in
the pan
and its wrong.
If you want to talk, call me at my cell 630-561-0400.
Scott Krueger
AKA Grayhawk
Lancair N92EX IO320 SB 89/96
Aurora, IL (KARR)
A man
has got to know his limitations.